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Hmm interesting, in industrial applications all the belts either V or timing belt (like gilmer) etc. have a spec given by the manufacturer of the belt for optimal performance. It’s often tighter than you would think. The spec is given in Hz normally, there are apps which use your smartphone mic but the best is an optical freq meter.
Wonder if anyone’s tried tensioning using this method. I would have thought with the belt flapping it would prematurely wear the pulleys then it will always be noisy. Of course assuming the pulleys were the correct profile to begin with.
sorry for the tangent, an interesting topic.
So if you tension it to the correct spec for the manufacturer of the belt it will be loud?
Ah cool, thanks. Never seen that mod before.
probably didn’t help that I was thinking normal 6PK type pulley haha
other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now
do you have any pics of this mod?
Btw the E40 was a cross over between LS1 pcm and the E38 ECM (has same processor as the LS1 but rest of the architecture is more like an E38) from memory the E40 talks on the VPW bus where as E38 is CAN which is why the VE would use a E38 as they are all CAN bus.
This, E38’s are a whiny bitch at the best of times, takes very little for them to chuck a wobbly!
I’ve heard the same about the E38 ecu glad the VZ LS2 HSV’s used the slightly bigger and been told better E40 ecu. Funny how the LS2 in the VE used the E38 same as all other VE’s
actually I’ve found the E40 to be way more picky than the E38. E55 which is the small Alloytec ECU fitted on the cal head is by far the worst. Whoever thought it was a good idea to mount an ECU filled with tiny hairsized wires to the head and subject it to all the vibrations of each running engine really needs a recalibration…
some E38’s end up with random corruption of the Flash chip, no one that I know of can say exactly why it happens but could be anything from a bad flash program or voltage spike during cranking with weak battery etc.
Thanks guys, good to know a source of the pipe and bends.
Awesome stuff! Got any pics of the fretting?
BGF tyres look real tuff on a commodore haha.
I did the Headers on the Lexcen out of 409, may as well be rust free Mild Steel it’s so easy to work with!
where do you get 409 from? My local steel shop only has 316
So you machined in the castor/camber correction you wanted into the top adapter and cantered it in the strut plate? Not using the adjustable setup?
Are you keeping the urethane top mount and adjustable strut top plate?
Basically either take your advice wanting to run 235/245 40 18. Im getting rolling wheelspin and sideways at anything under 40 k in the dry. Open to suggestions. Ill come up on day and you can scare me silly ?
Federal 595-RSRR is what I have from St George tyres, RSRR looks to be what Ian has too. They ‘feel’ soft and kinda sticky to touch. Haven’t driven on them yet.
I’d be up for Winton 😀
Any reason for the split brands?
As an electronics guy (in a previous life) I get the lag due to distance and I assume its introducing hysteresis into the feed back loop? So what I think your saying is as long as the tuner is ramping the throttle up or down relatively “slowly/gently” for want of a better word then tailpipe would be fine and match the sensor if it were nearer the heads. But if you were looking at what its doing at say the hit of the throttle the lag can introduce a problem?
well not even ramping, just holding at a certain load point till it stabilises to get a reliable reading at the tailpipe. Unfortunately when you do that at higher power levels things start heat soaking rapidly etc. so its a moving goal post.
Its not really a closed loop, as the feedback isn’t used for any input apart from determining a correction factor.
a big part of driveability is transient response, hard to get any indication of this when sampling at the tailpipe
Yeah from efilive site worst case scenario is 1%-2% (0.01-0.02) and others swear nothing. Every tuner I’ve met uses contraption after the muffler in the tips.
Cool, would be interesting to do a test and see just what the difference is in the real world but it’s going to be different for every combination I guess depending on Cat type and age, if those numbers are accurate at all it’s below the +- of most consumer level equipment to measure anyway..
you would also need to factor in timelag if transient state, also response time of sensors and controller as well as output filtering (filtering transitent signal). Some of this can be removed if testing in true steady state but then you also have analogue offset in each wideband controller as well as the measurement device. Everything has to be calculated etc. when you look at the resolution across the full scale (10 to 20 AFR, 0-5V) as well as the DAC of the output stage in the wideband… you wonder if you people are chasing ghosts.
I doubt you will see a tangible diff in mixture at WOT however with tailpipe measurement you will definitely see a noticeable lag as well as influence of any leaks along the exhaust. Tuners use tailpipe as its easy and clean… otherwise you have to setup on a hoist or jack up, then contend with the sometimes rusty bungs etc. That said, I always go pre cat if possible and allow an extra hr or so for setup and removal time. Makes for a much better result.
being so far away from the exhaust port, they need heaters to keep them at the correct operating temperature. The pre/post o2 sensor combo is part of the catalyst efficiency algorithm. Aside from any processing the CATs may do to the exhaust gas, the further away from the port you are, the more lag you get and chance of leaks etc. affecting the reading.
I always fit pre-cat if possible, at the end of the day though we have to be practical about how we set it up. If you are tuning to what the engine wants rather than a fixed number then a few points AFR difference probably isn’t going to be an issue unless you are doing OEM tuning
Thanks Ben, have dealt with Techedge a few times and found the owner to be very helpful even to the point of happily refunding my $ when his parts wouldn’t do what I was trying to do at the time! The options now are to buy a new sensor for the Powerdex then still have the offset hassle or shelve it and buy a TE, leaning towards option 2 as the sensors have gone up since the last time I bought one.. On a brighter note the only “error” left in the Lexcen is the SRS light on the Dash which is understandable seeing there’s no wiring module or bags in the car, it was interesting that the CS ABS Module wouldn’t reprogram to L98, ever come across that?!
I believe the powerdex uses a LSU4.2? You can still use this with Techedge, depending which version you get you need to change jumpers and reflash to suit LSU4.9 if you change. LSU4.2 is still a good sensor tho. Techedge also supply sensors at a reasonable price.
I believe you can turn off the SRS in the dash with a TECHII, I know you can set the configuration to how many airbags you have.
Havnt had that exact issue with ABS but most modules do need to be released from the old link before relinking.
Thanks for the clarification Ben! I’d like to replace mine with something Serial do you have any recommendations? ————– Today End! Had to go into Town this morning to get some fuel for the weekend’s activities so decided while I was halfway there I’d shoot down and borrow my Mate’s Tech2 again and have another crack at it now all the Numbers match.. Got back plugged it all in, NO contact SPS error thing this time got straight in, there seems to be something on the CAN Bus that’s interrupting comms so it was dropping out now and again but at least I could get in and play, Had an ABS Config error as suspected so went in and fed it the matching VIN then went to program it as as L98 and not the LS2 Clubsport that the module was… BZZZZZ nah no way no how… bugger, plan B, swapped in my brand new Blank Module that was supplied in error when I built the Tonner, fed it the VIN Programmed it and now I have 100% operational TRAC and ABS!! Unplugged the Tech2 and packed up before I “fiddled” and broke something!
Funny you mention serial wideband, the reason I asked which you were running was to see if you already had serial. To be honest, I use both AD and serial on my flashscan and don’t have issues with offset but some people seem to be plagued with it… really depends what you want to do… for my race car, I use the Techedge, after you look at response time, accuracy etc. the next biggest decision factor is display!
With Techedge the controller is good, supports the LSU 4.9 which is latest tech, response is fast, quality construction and importantly, you can read the display (LX1) in direct sunlight – it’s big and clear so you know exactly what’s going on with your motor. Never been able to do that with any other display I’ve used as they use a LED matrix display. TE LX1 is a LCD backlight display. Id look at either a 2J9 + LX1 display, or 2C0B + LX1 display. Not to mention they are an Australian Company.
I also regularly use an Innovate LM-2, Autronics B and have customers using AEM, PLX etc. for my money tho, as a permanent in car Techedge gets the tick. Motec PLM is also very nice…
I have modified the camber mounting point, made boxed section and cut the roof out of the standard mount. Made boxed section with extra hole 20mm higher, I get basically zero camber at a height of 625mm (measuring floor to lip). Also it’s a good idea to have subframe bushes that are either solid or hard urethane as the top of the box will sit very close to the body. I also modified the control arm with 4130 chromoly tube arm on the toe section and used a heim joint. Also made coilover bracket for double adjustable Viking/qa1/strange coilovers.
Very interesting setup! do you have any pics?
