VZ Senator: Somebody had to be the first!

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Michael wrote:

Jaba wrote:

Found a solution G Force sell a CV upgrade kit for my driveshafts, using stronger Porsche units. Then I’ll just get my original shafts machined down and I’ll be good to go! Gary when you measured up for driveshafts, did you do it once the subframe was back in the car, or before you installed it?

I’ve found with the standard shafts, the shafts break or the splines strip. Never had a problem with the cv joint.

Yep. I twisted both mine and one cleaned snapped after my 5k Calder launch lol

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

Oh shit really? I’ve knit heard of the CV joints tearing themselves up.

 

Have encountered a problem, gave it a bit of stick last night and gearbox was not happy with me doing so.

As it went to change into second it smashed the limiter and acted as if it was in neutral. Wouldn’t take off in 3rd or 4th. It moves fine in 1st or 2nd of the line and changed between the two fine. Won’t change into 3rd, but if you manually change into third once you get the road speed up it will change between 3rd and 4th no problem.

 

So the only problems I can see is it won’t change from 2nd – 3rd and it won’t take off in 3rd or D.

 

Anyone had this problem before? The fact that it drives fine in all gears makes me think it’s a solenoid problem or something?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

3/4 pack is fried, did you kick it down hard while in Drive at any stage?

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

Nope, just taking off from a stand still gave it stick to hold it in first. We in drive but was still in 1st gear the whole time.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Bit odd under those circumstances, usually happens when you give it a boot and it kicks down to 2nd under load, trans can’t exhaust the pressure quick enough and the 3/4 pack it still engaged and loses…

Doesn’t kill it if the shifter is in 3rd though…

Maybe the 3/4 pack in yours was on it’s way out, has it been tuned?

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

Yeah mate gearbox has been tuned, tuner spent a whole day getting it right apparently.

Would the box still shift between 3/4 okay if the clutch packs were worn? It sifts fine between 1-2 + 3-4 just doesn’t automatically shift anymore.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

So you can drive it using the shifter and 3/4 are there?

If so ignore everything I posted, sounds like it’s shit a solenoid, sorry for the bum steer..

(my fault for skimming your OP)

Have a look at this page for what needs to happen on each gear shift>>

http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/operation.html

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Massive believer if you want the box to shift properly you do it mechanically not via the tune.

 

The amount of big dollar boxes I’ve seen destroyed cause tuners think they are trans experts is unbelievable. Mate who works at a big name trans shop used to see it weekly.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

My bitter experience is a lot of “tuners” don’t have a clue what the trans is actually doing, let alone needs/wants.  Lets just give it truck loads of line pressure and off ya go.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

VRSenator065 wrote:

My bitter experience is a lot of “tuners” don’t have a clue what the trans is actually doing, let alone needs/wants. Lets just give it truck loads of line pressure and off ya go.

This.

Then soon as they get one ok, they think their experts

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

Wow thanks for that link Ij, really helpful!

Line pressures were hardly increased if at all on my car, it still drives like standard, he just spent a lot of time getting the shifts points right etc, it completely changed the way the car drove before the cam / stall. It was definitely my driving that killed the box not the way it was tuned. I have complete faith in the way the car is tuned.

Senator is now at the shop ready to have box removed and torn down. Contemplating whether to just repair it or rebuild with better internals, im leaning more to just repairing it as these boxes will never be bulletproof and I still want it as streetable as it can be, so I wont be going T400 unless I go for big cubes / FI.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Very welcome, I can get them to stay together mechanically but the 3/4 pack is still a wear item that needs replacing time to time when you pump reasonable power through them, mine makes around 450 awkw so it’s not massively powerful but the AWD system loads it up a lot more than a rwd car will..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

But IJ surely its not just kw that kills a gearbox (or any driveline part for that matter) its also about torque, how and how hard its driven, where its driven, how well it hooks up etc?  All those play a big part I would have thought?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Yes of course it’s torque that rips parts up Gary, by we’re talking V8 engines so Torque is a given..

KW/Tq are part of the same sum, mine being AWD means it’s going to hook up and break parts even at the low by modern standards level of power it makes, been a long time since I’ve had a mechanical failure in the trans so I’m fairly comfortable I’ve got that side of it beaten with the way I build them.

Only took me 9 tries to get it “right” as no one that knows is willing to share what needs to be done..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Pretty nice work to be able to say that you can build a 65 to last with that power/t.  Totally get the awd will put more load, from memory HSV had to detune the awd coupe thing didn’t they for that reason?  I wish I had known you when I had a crack at building mine for some guidance, it still might be in there.  But in the end the issue with mine I think was more due to the tuner(s) not understanding what the hardware wanted/needed.  The first tuner left the shift delay at 500ms, which was always going to give it a hard time.  I guess that a great advantage you have having control over the whole process.  With mine, it had broken the input shaft where it fits into the ally drum when I got it, then the 1/2nd clutch pack went, then after that the 3/4.  After that I gave up!!  Sorry for the thread hijack btw Jaba!!

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

No problem Gary.

Gearbox has been repaired and reinstalled ready for pickup on the weekend. Unfortunately with working away and on nightshift it’s hard to keep in contact with what’s going on with the car. It’s just been repaired as standard I believe, when I dropped the car off I told him I didn’t want a shift kit or anything installed as I want it to shift / drive like a standard car, I also mentioned I’m happy to upgrade whatever weak components / failed components there are as long as it doesn’t affect drivevability to much. They were supposed to contact me with what parts I could upgrade etc and go from there but it seems they’ve just done the job. A little pissed off as it could just cost me more in the long run if the same parts fail again but I’m not too phased.

 

Next up I’m looking at doing 3:9 gears and a trutrac centre. I’ve found a set of brand new gears on gumtree, but I’m not 100% sure they’ll fit my diff.

They’re 28 spline the part number. Is as follows…

0575-016  WS   3  89 : 1   0

Is anyone able to help me out? The seller said they were purchased for his VL turbo, but it’s not a standard VL turbo diff / housing.

 

Cheers!

 

[MichaelParticipant VY Calais 383ci GT42 turbo. View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 208]

M80 diff gears are like $400 for genuine off eBay.

[JabaParticipant Perth, WAVZ Senator View build HERE Member since: February 18, 2015 Posts: 103]

What brand is genuine Michael? Few places over your side of the country do Eaton truetracs and motive gears for around $1100.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Genuine = Holden

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Do not get motive.

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