This topic contains 449 replies, has 26 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065 4 years, 6 months ago.

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  • #9898
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Yeah it looks like a nice piece of gear

     

    always wanted sequential manual set up

     

    its still stock box so not dog box to do flat changes but that’s ok as if box ever packs it in it’s still a relatively spcheap fix

    #9899
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    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Watching with interest…..

    #9910
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    cava454
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    They look like a good piece of gear. Wouldn’t be cheap tho.

    #9913
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    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    I reckon I would want to actually drive one before I committed the cash, just to see how it actually “feels”.  Does look like a great bit of kit though.

    #9917
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    vs manta 218
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    Comin in at something like $2500 it’s not really cheap

    But building a blowen stroked 355 wasn’t cheap either, only live once

    http://youtu.be/gO-ScsLXPoE

    #9918
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    vs manta 218
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    It really is just wank factor but I like it, very fap worthy

     

    also it’s Aussie made

     

    http://youtu.be/wCB3IOUuvmY

    #9920
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    Immortality
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    That’s definitely interesting.  I’ll take a manual box any day of the week :)

    #9921
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    vs manta 218
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    Yeah I’m a manual person as well, I’m well aware a correctly stalled auto is quicker on a drag strip when In a low 11 second car or faster but I figgered 99% of the time myn will be on the streets or a cruise or something so manual it is for me

     

    must admite been passenger in a quick manual car is much more hair raising then been passenger in a auto

    #9922
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    moodybluebob
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    I can agree with that! went passenger in a mates VX clubby at powercruise. 408 turbo pushing 750 on run in. 6 speed dog box. Makes it way more fun chopping people grabbing gears haha.

    Would love to see this car in the flesh one day

    #12314
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    vs manta 218
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    I’m back

     

    so since last tune car was goin great then out of no where it just started shutting down above 5000rpm and feeling really doowie and would not start once hot unless I jumped it

    Start checking things out and noticed I only had 11.8v and max of 12.3v at high rpm usually a little less

     

    got a 120 amp alternator hooked it up and same thing, still low voltage, so I got a amp metre and bam it was sucking down 55amps at idle and 3000rpm it was pumping out 100amps and still at 12.4 or so V

     

    so I though screw this and found a Merican company that make alternators to your specs so I got a cs130 case, 200amp single wire capable of doin 120 amps at idle and requires a minimum of gauge 4 wire fitted to it

     

    fitted it and noticed I had to grind off 180 thou from its mounting point so done that and got the belt perfectly aligned, fired it up just to see with my old wire and bam still had 11.8v idle and mid 12 at rpm

     

    so because Iv been working 8 days a week I got my old boy to go into battery world and get few metres of gauge 4 wire, been a electrician I though he would nail this, anyway he told the bright spark behind the counter that wire he has is to big for 4 gauge but after he insisted it was 4G he got it and it’s actually 00 gauge same as my main battery cable so it was difficult to run the wire fowards and behind the gaurd and to my mounting block under dash where the 00 battery cable was, at the same time I replaced a few earth cables and the power cable to my fuse box for fuel pumps and thermo fans my car now consist of more copper them steel

    Fired it up and 13.5 V at idle and 14.3 at rpm, not sure if that’s to much but anyway I’m not shy of volts now and has fixed all my issues and running sweet as again

     

    so hopefully next week we do another street tune, we are making a series cable to hook my zietronix wide band into my EFI live so I can data log and then we hit the dyno and start feeding in some more timing as it’s still only running 11 degrees with over 400rwkw

     

    looking at 17-18 degrees and see what it does and I also have a slightly smaller pullie if I want to jam a bit more boost in it next winter

     

    other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now

    #12318
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    cookie
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    problem sounds familliar, but now it’s fixed does it feel like a new car again or is it still a bit doughy?

    #12319
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    vs manta 218
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    Feels good as now, not doughy anymore

     

    i didn’t mention that it would be ok in day time but night time was worse when lights where on

     

    ever item I turned I could see volts drop more, lights, thermo fans, on and use a electric window and it would be at 11.0V sometimes into the 10.9v

     

     

    also found my main earth wire was loose as when fitting new power cables as well

     

    MSD ingition absolutely hates low voltage, that’s why it wouldn’t start, would turn over and give a half assed fire but not start, hook jumper leads up and turn over bit faster and started straight away, drive off and it was really doughy and just wanted to break down under heavy throttle up top end

     

    felt like spark problem

    #12584
    Profile photo of Immortality
    Immortality
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    14.3 volts is fine, most alternators are rated at 14.4 volts in our era cars.  Some of the newer cars run at a higher voltage I believe.

    I had the same issue with my 308, low voltage  at idle and batteries going flat even though I seemed to have good voltage at the alternator output post.  Good cables really are a must when you have lots of electrical loads.

    Good to hear it’s sorted.

    #12588
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine.  With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge.  But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well.  Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon.  Thanks for the write up :good:

    #12597
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    Immortality
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    EFI really doesn’t like to much voltage fluctuation either, it effects the injector DC.  There are compensation tables in the tunes but they are really only suited to the factory injectors.  Once you start changing injectors and lots of other variables things can get interesting.

    #12599
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    vs manta 218
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    Yes because volts have changed a lot is the main reason to do some street tuning first

     

    can make a car drive nice by street tuning so much better then on a dyno exspecially with myn That wants to be a savage

     

    hopefully me and leppy go for a drive next Monday or Tuesday and after that I’m sorting some tyres for some of my 18 inch rims before some serious power runs on the dyno ready for some mph runs down the strip Next year

     

    My prediction is right now with 11 degrees and 6800rpm it’s got 425-430rwkw as last time on the 20 inch rims it just spun them after 5900rpm at 400rwkw and when we bump up the timing maybe about 470-480 rwkw witch will be very very nice for a 355 on 13 psi

    #12665
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine. With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge. But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well. Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon. Thanks for the write up

     

    only just seen you had replied Gary

     

    yeah it very well could be a problem, fuel pumps take massive power supply along with everything else you very quickly add up to 80 amps

     

    if you can find a end of your alternator wire where you can get verniers (don’t know how to spell it but the tool that measures in thou) and see what size the core of the wire is and match it to see what gauge it is

     

    if it’s gauge 7 or smaller, so gauge 8 then definetly a problem, if it’s gauge 6 then you will be on the limits and gauge 5 or 4 is good

     

    gauge 6 is what most will hand you over the counter but the problem is this is all good with a battery in the engine bay with 800mm of wire, but me and you have 2.5M at least till it gets to the big battery wire

     

    i think from memory you have a gauge 0 or 00 from battery to under your dash somewhere like I do then it goes in wheel well to starter and on to alternator

    #12668
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    benk
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     other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now

     

    do you have any pics of this mod?

    #12671
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Only this crappy one of when I drilled the first row, Iv machined my 60mm pullie down to about 53mm, so each row is about 17mm from out sides and 17mm between them give or take a bees dick

     

    when end I put this on FB the first response was why would you want to make it quitter, I couldn’t face palm my self hard enough,

     

    not every one gets a fat over a gilma whine lol

    #12672
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Would make much more difference if they went right through, the noise is just trapped air between the pully and the belt, think armpit farts..  :XD:

    I run a gatorback belt on mine and it reduced the noise totally.

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