Home›Forums›Members’ Builds and Rides›VN – VP – VR – VS›VS Manta #218
This topic contains 449 replies, has 26 voices, and was last updated by VRSenator065 4 years, 7 months ago.
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October 6, 2015 at 7:01 pm #9898
Yeah it looks like a nice piece of gear
always wanted sequential manual set up
its still stock box so not dog box to do flat changes but that’s ok as if box ever packs it in it’s still a relatively spcheap fix
October 6, 2015 at 7:07 pm #9899
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Watching with interest…..
October 7, 2015 at 3:00 pm #9910They look like a good piece of gear. Wouldn’t be cheap tho.
October 7, 2015 at 3:51 pm #9913
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I reckon I would want to actually drive one before I committed the cash, just to see how it actually “feels”. Does look like a great bit of kit though.
October 7, 2015 at 6:51 pm #9917Comin in at something like $2500 it’s not really cheap
But building a blowen stroked 355 wasn’t cheap either, only live once
October 7, 2015 at 6:55 pm #9918It really is just wank factor but I like it, very fap worthy
also it’s Aussie made
- This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month ago by vs manta 218.
October 7, 2015 at 7:02 pm #9920
ImmortalityParticipant- 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais
View build HERE
Posts: 535That’s definitely interesting. I’ll take a manual box any day of the week
October 7, 2015 at 7:15 pm #9921Yeah I’m a manual person as well, I’m well aware a correctly stalled auto is quicker on a drag strip when In a low 11 second car or faster but I figgered 99% of the time myn will be on the streets or a cruise or something so manual it is for me
must admite been passenger in a quick manual car is much more hair raising then been passenger in a auto
October 7, 2015 at 8:15 pm #9922I can agree with that! went passenger in a mates VX clubby at powercruise. 408 turbo pushing 750 on run in. 6 speed dog box. Makes it way more fun chopping people grabbing gears haha.
Would love to see this car in the flesh one day
December 20, 2015 at 8:50 pm #12314I’m back
so since last tune car was goin great then out of no where it just started shutting down above 5000rpm and feeling really doowie and would not start once hot unless I jumped it
Start checking things out and noticed I only had 11.8v and max of 12.3v at high rpm usually a little less
got a 120 amp alternator hooked it up and same thing, still low voltage, so I got a amp metre and bam it was sucking down 55amps at idle and 3000rpm it was pumping out 100amps and still at 12.4 or so V
so I though screw this and found a Merican company that make alternators to your specs so I got a cs130 case, 200amp single wire capable of doin 120 amps at idle and requires a minimum of gauge 4 wire fitted to it
fitted it and noticed I had to grind off 180 thou from its mounting point so done that and got the belt perfectly aligned, fired it up just to see with my old wire and bam still had 11.8v idle and mid 12 at rpm
so because Iv been working 8 days a week I got my old boy to go into battery world and get few metres of gauge 4 wire, been a electrician I though he would nail this, anyway he told the bright spark behind the counter that wire he has is to big for 4 gauge but after he insisted it was 4G he got it and it’s actually 00 gauge same as my main battery cable so it was difficult to run the wire fowards and behind the gaurd and to my mounting block under dash where the 00 battery cable was, at the same time I replaced a few earth cables and the power cable to my fuse box for fuel pumps and thermo fans my car now consist of more copper them steel
Fired it up and 13.5 V at idle and 14.3 at rpm, not sure if that’s to much but anyway I’m not shy of volts now and has fixed all my issues and running sweet as again
so hopefully next week we do another street tune, we are making a series cable to hook my zietronix wide band into my EFI live so I can data log and then we hit the dyno and start feeding in some more timing as it’s still only running 11 degrees with over 400rwkw
looking at 17-18 degrees and see what it does and I also have a slightly smaller pullie if I want to jam a bit more boost in it next winter
other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now
December 20, 2015 at 9:33 pm #12318problem sounds familliar, but now it’s fixed does it feel like a new car again or is it still a bit doughy?
December 20, 2015 at 9:46 pm #12319Feels good as now, not doughy anymore
i didn’t mention that it would be ok in day time but night time was worse when lights where on
ever item I turned I could see volts drop more, lights, thermo fans, on and use a electric window and it would be at 11.0V sometimes into the 10.9v
also found my main earth wire was loose as when fitting new power cables as well
MSD ingition absolutely hates low voltage, that’s why it wouldn’t start, would turn over and give a half assed fire but not start, hook jumper leads up and turn over bit faster and started straight away, drive off and it was really doughy and just wanted to break down under heavy throttle up top end
felt like spark problem
December 21, 2015 at 4:01 am #12584
ImmortalityParticipant- 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais
View build HERE
Posts: 53514.3 volts is fine, most alternators are rated at 14.4 volts in our era cars. Some of the newer cars run at a higher voltage I believe.
I had the same issue with my 308, low voltage at idle and batteries going flat even though I seemed to have good voltage at the alternator output post. Good cables really are a must when you have lots of electrical loads.
Good to hear it’s sorted.
December 21, 2015 at 10:40 am #12588
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine. With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge. But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well. Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon. Thanks for the write up
December 21, 2015 at 5:25 pm #12597
ImmortalityParticipant- 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais
View build HERE
Posts: 535EFI really doesn’t like to much voltage fluctuation either, it effects the injector DC. There are compensation tables in the tunes but they are really only suited to the factory injectors. Once you start changing injectors and lots of other variables things can get interesting.
December 21, 2015 at 7:39 pm #12599Yes because volts have changed a lot is the main reason to do some street tuning first
can make a car drive nice by street tuning so much better then on a dyno exspecially with myn That wants to be a savage
hopefully me and leppy go for a drive next Monday or Tuesday and after that I’m sorting some tyres for some of my 18 inch rims before some serious power runs on the dyno ready for some mph runs down the strip Next year
My prediction is right now with 11 degrees and 6800rpm it’s got 425-430rwkw as last time on the 20 inch rims it just spun them after 5900rpm at 400rwkw and when we bump up the timing maybe about 470-480 rwkw witch will be very very nice for a 355 on 13 psi
December 23, 2015 at 8:59 pm #12665Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine. With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge. But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well. Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon. Thanks for the write up
only just seen you had replied Gary
yeah it very well could be a problem, fuel pumps take massive power supply along with everything else you very quickly add up to 80 amps
if you can find a end of your alternator wire where you can get verniers (don’t know how to spell it but the tool that measures in thou) and see what size the core of the wire is and match it to see what gauge it is
if it’s gauge 7 or smaller, so gauge 8 then definetly a problem, if it’s gauge 6 then you will be on the limits and gauge 5 or 4 is good
gauge 6 is what most will hand you over the counter but the problem is this is all good with a battery in the engine bay with 800mm of wire, but me and you have 2.5M at least till it gets to the big battery wire
i think from memory you have a gauge 0 or 00 from battery to under your dash somewhere like I do then it goes in wheel well to starter and on to alternator
December 24, 2015 at 9:13 am #12668other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now
do you have any pics of this mod?
December 24, 2015 at 3:36 pm #12671Only this crappy one of when I drilled the first row, Iv machined my 60mm pullie down to about 53mm, so each row is about 17mm from out sides and 17mm between them give or take a bees dick
when end I put this on FB the first response was why would you want to make it quitter, I couldn’t face palm my self hard enough,
not every one gets a fat over a gilma whine lol
December 24, 2015 at 4:15 pm #12672Would make much more difference if they went right through, the noise is just trapped air between the pully and the belt, think armpit farts.. :XD:
I run a gatorback belt on mine and it reduced the noise totally.
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