This topic contains 41 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081 7 years, 7 months ago.

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  • #6473
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    Model; 1997 HSV VS II Senator 185i

    Engine: stock HSV, original.

    Gearbox: T5 Manual

    Paint: Panther Mica (gone to crap)

    Interior: Leather

    Mileage: 200,000km (Sept ’15) / 202,500km (Nov ’15)

    Suspension: FE2 spec, KYB shocks, King springs, nolathane/superpro bushes, strut brace, whiteline swaybars (front 30mm adjustable, rear 20mm fixed)

    Brakes: Front 330mm DBA 4000 slotted, PBR dual piston calipers (BF XR8 spec) / rear DBA T2 solid slotted 280mm.

    Wheels (street): VS Senator 17×8 rims with Goodyear Eagle F1 235/45/17

    Wheels (track): VS Senator 17×8 rims with Hankook RS3/Z222 235/45/17

    Fuel Efficiency: City – 14-ish L/100km (not bahaving either), Highway – 11 L/100km.

    Radiator: Fenix, Aluminium (less than a 1/2 hot on track)

    Exhaust: After diff, two straight through 2 1/4in pipes (removed resonator). Good sound.

    Purchased: Dec ’06 (148,000km)

    —————————————

    I bought my 1997 VS Senator Dec 2006 off a mate who had it for 5 years and was second owner. It was completely stock.

    I always like the car as I remember being year 12 in school when these came out and thinking that there were the nuts. So when I first found out my mate had a black (panther mica) and manual Senator I was jealous. Didn’t let him know that though….

    So when my mate decided to part ways with it, to buy a new VE SS, I think he already knew it would be worth calling me. At first I said I wasn’t keen, hoping to screw him down. He invited me around for a BBQ and chucked me the keys my way while he cooked up. He said take my time so I went for a cruise through the Adelaide hills for about an hour, and I was hooked! We sorted out a reasonable deal between mates ($14k), not long after. He even let me take the car as soon as we shook on it.

    When I got the car I was letting good mates have a drive of the car, one night I let a mate drive it when I was drunk. I said ‘give it a lil’ and this is how it ended up (Nov ’07)… Moral of the story, don’t let 4 cyclinders retards near a v8. Still a touchy subject to this day and friendship has never really recovered.

    Took it to a suspension specialist and got it all sorted mechanically. To this day it still has a few marks/scratches, and tons underneath…

    I too have not always looked after it…

    But it did get washed that day…

    It has seen a fair bit of use, but I’ve only done 50,000km in the time I’ve had it (12,000 on Darwin/Melb road trip)…

    Only real drama I have had with the car is the A/C kept losing gas – after tons of stuffing around it was found that a VT valve was installed instead of a VS and the size was slightly different which resulted in the gas leaking all the time.

    I also had some surging and stalling issues – see this thread http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/holden-vs-v8-5-0l-surging-and-stalling/

    Basically I did the minimum to keep the car going until it all came to a point in time when I moved to Qld, and had to get it roadworthy-ied… Basically the suspension was shot, and bunch of other misc stuff. A mate had offered to take it off my hands as is, and he would deal with any rego issues, but to me a car has soul… I felt I had plenty of love for the car.

    So I forked over the cash (Nov ’14) and got new KYB shocks (ditched the auto level who haa), King springs, nolathane/superpro bushes, steering bits, strut brace, etc… So happy I did as it drives like a dream, as I imagine it did out of the factory.

    A mate of mine arranged a Skid Pan day which was fun – check out thread – http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/skid-pan-day-first-experience/

    Of late, I have been getting into track days at Lakeside, which has resulted in plenty of work of late… New radiator, pedal box, new front brakes, new HD clutch, new pads/rotors/master/booster, but for a 198,000km the motor goes well. Check out these threads…

    http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/lakeside-track-sprint-day-first-experience/

    http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/lakeside-track-sprint-day-second-go/

    After second track day, I realised the stock VS 290mm single piston front brakes are crap. The car is just too big for those size brakes, which makes sense why the 215i went 330mm fronts. More info about my dramas in this thread – http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/vs-brake-upgrades/

    Stupid switch on brake pedal for cruise control keeps coming lose, so that’s the only real problem at the mo.

    Anyways – the car is all set to go for another track day on May 29th at Lakeside!!

    Near Term Future Plans – larger front sway bar, semi slicks (for track), more track days

    Long Term Future Plans – new paint, interior refresh, engine rebuild (stroker), yella terra supercharger.

    • This topic was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081. Reason: added more specs
    • This topic was modified 9 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081. Reason: Updated Sept '15
    • This topic was modified 9 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081. Reason: added swaybar dimensions
    • This topic was modified 9 years, 2 months ago by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081.
    • This topic was modified 9 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081 SSEN8R VS #1081.
    #6474
    Profile photo of Phire aka Gmfan
    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Member since: March 3, 2015
    Posts: 105

    Yeh old singles were pretty woeful even in my old vr v6. It was running pretty hard compound pads from previous owner which didn’t help but vt upgrade even with spongy pedal felt more confident. The twin piston 330mm kit was heaps better than the vt setup though. I had the dba 4000 rotors too but the older version.

    You got a seat or harness for the car or just running factory seats/belts?

    #6480
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    Member since: March 16, 2015
    Posts: 227
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    Just factory leather bucket seats that are splitting at the stitches where you slide over it getting in and out.

    NB: if you got harness set up then you need to get hans device helmet! – well at lakeside.

    #6484
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Beautiful car mate, I love the comment about a car having soul.  That’s why i never sold mine, came close a few times when it was laid up un drivable, but just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  Great that you drive it not hide it as well :good:

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #6973
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    #7105
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    Gave her a good clean…

    Got a good shot of the new front 330mm brakes inside the stock 17in wheels.

    After I got the new heavy duty clutch installed the other week, found the cruise control didn’t work anymore. I thought it was probably the brake light switch, which has been playing up since I had the pedal box replaced after it broke at my first track day in Feb. See here for details – http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/lakeside-track-sprint-day-first-experience/

    The real problem is that manuals didn’t come out with cruise control – I bought this off my mate, who was second owner, and he bought it from holdens as 5yo 2nd hand car, and he asked them for the factory cruise control to be put in. So holdens hacked it together for him. As you can see in the pic below – 1 is the clutch pedal switch, 2 is the brake pedal switch, and 3 is where they hacked into the loom to connect the clutch pedal switch in series. So they are ‘normally closed’ switches where voltage goes through the switches so the cruise control module knows that you have not pushed either pedal, or you have pushed the pedals so it turns off.

    The mount for the clutch pedal is a full home brew hack as a hole had to be drilled into my replacement pedal box, and it’s just a big screw through a tight hole holding it in.

    NB: The cable tie, on the brake pedal switch, is the auto elecs hack to stop the brake pedal switch getting out of position/alignment, which has happened a couple of times.

    So I got my head down there with multimeter with continuity turned on, and found the clutch pedal switch wasn’t being pushed enough (closing the switch), as if I lifted the pedal I got the multi to buzz. So after I got the clutch replaced, the clutch pedal must no longer rebound/spring back up to the same position, not closing the switch, hence stopping the cruise control from turning on…

    From the pic it looks like there maybe some more adjustment on the thread, but when I had my head down there I couldn’t see any, so I did a little hack with a bit of rubber and electrical tape. Let’s see how long it holds together… :unsure: did a drive down the highway today, 1 hour each way, and the cruise control was fine.

    #7113
    Profile photo of Kroozer
    Kroozer
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    Nice engineering ;-)  hahaha

    #7117
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    i figure it’ll last 2 weeks or 10 years! then i’ll do it properly….

    #7235
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    Got my next Lakeside track day this Friday and I have not taken the car for thrash since I had the new brakes installed. Figured if something was wrong or going to go wrong that I wanted to find out before I went to track, and preferably with some time to get it fixed. So yesterday went for a thrash up my local hoon track – Samford Village to Mt Glorious (Brisbane). See google maps screenshot below – note: I put it on cycle directions as it gives the elevation (~600m vertical).

    Went for a cruise up there around sunset and luckily the traffic was really good. BUT every time I gave the car a proper squirt it coughed and missed, almost to the point I thought it was going to stall. I backed off, got to the top and went back down. I didn’t really have much fuel, 1/8th, so filled up and gave it another go.

    While I was on the straight section at the bottom of the hill, a Porsche of some type appeared in my rear vision mirror. I sat on the speed limit, well +10kmh. The porsche kept dropping off and flying up my arse. Then we caught up to a slow poke, so I pulled out on a nice over taking spot and the porsche almost blindly followed me out, but there wasn’t any traffic and we could see pretty far ahead. Anyways, got to the fun stuff  with no traffic ahead and gave this porsche a showing. He tried to sit on my arse, but when you know the road, know the spots to behave and know the spots to go hard, I managed to lose him easily or just prove I bigger balls (and a lot cheaper car)! Nah he’s just a sh*t driver. That put a smile on my face :yes: especially since the car didn’t miss a beat. Guess it was just the fuel being low, will remember for future.

    Bring on Friday. New brakes, new tyres, hopefully decent new PB.

    #7251
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    Kroozer
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    Great work mate! Did you see the Porsche drivers face after some dirty old commy handed it to him  :yahoo:   :yahoo:   :yahoo:

    #7861
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    More horse power for the track or paint to look sweet….? Paint is pretty sad…

    #7863
    Profile photo of shred
    shred
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 55

    if u are enjoying the track and want more go fast and handling id invest in that

    a nice paint job is always good to have but pretty will not improve ur times at the track ;)

     

    cant tell by those pics but is it just the bonnet or is it everywhere like my vs

    #7864
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    The bonnet is the worse of it – front and rear bumper are the same as the bonnet… the rest would prob come up alright with an expensive detail / paint correction, but there are scratches, chips, trolley dents, and ill fitting side skirts that are usual for almost 20 year / 200,000km paint job….

    I would be really upset if I painted it and went back to the track and then someone sprayed a ton of stones up… or worse, I crash it and ruin a new paint job…

    #7865
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    shred
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    yeh the only shiny parts on my vs are the bottom halves of the doors haha my bars have no shine at all but at least urs isnt red :)

    if u can polish a shine on the rest of the car maybe a quick rub back and a hit with sum satin black could be a cheap fix for the bonnet for the time being as a panther paint job is gunna be a complete job for a nice finish

    what master/booster are u running? and have u got braided lines? i have vt brakes up front no abs with a vt master on the vs and am thinking about goin up to 330mm discs and braided lines up front

    i have 330mm with nissan r33gtst 4 piston calipers braided lines and an rbs vt master/booster on my vl turbo and this seems to be a good combo although im not goin to be doin any racing with it

    “vl is my money pit the vs is a toy i throw money at now an then lol”

    #7866
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    A mate suggested getting a wrap on the bonnet for cheap temp cover up – could prob get the bonnet painted for the same price…

    Standard VS booster (recently replaced), but I changed the master (VT i think) for the 330mm front brakes. yep braided lines on the front. If you aint doing racing it’ll work sweet… pulling up from 200 down to 100 at the end of main straight at Lakeside, about once a minute – then I would suggest 4 piston or 6 piston if you don’t want to go bigger than 330mm… don’t get me wrong, the brakes still work, but lil mx5’s will be taking you under brakes…

    see this post for more chit chat about brakes – http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/vs-brake-upgrades/

    #7867
    Profile photo of shred
    shred
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    yeh cool id read that thread but missed u mentioning the master an lines

    nah i dont want to go bigger than 330 i want to stick with 17s and the twin pistons on the vs im up for sum new front discs soon and was thinking about filling the space up with the larger discs

    wrapping the bonnet is a good idea but yeh prolly cost around the same for a decent brand material an gettin sum1 to do it for ya

    welp as i said before if the track has ur interest and ur interest is growing then thats where id be investing my money as long as ur prepared to keep up with it and get ur moneys worth but just remember racing costs more money than ur expecting to layout and before u know it ur car is a track car and u have a nice shiney tow car and trailer lol

     

    #7868
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Don’t think I’d bother with nice paint on a Track Toy, you can be sure the 1st event after the new paint is the one where shit happens ..

    #7871
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    sv89#170
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    Member since: March 4, 2015
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    You would be surprised what a decent cut and polish / buff then wax will do for it id give that a shot doesn’t look like the clear is peeling on the bonnet just oxidised either that or hand it over to a detailer

    #7883
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    I always thought it was too far gone, but I have not taken it to a professional.. It may look bearable after and atleast get another couple of years out if…

    #9333
    Profile photo of SSEN8R VS #1081
    SSEN8R VS #1081
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    So disappointingly it happened.. ticked over 200,000km. disappointed as I wanted to do it at the track!!

    Right so took the car in to get better rotors on the rear.. turns out you can’t get the DBA t3 for VS IRS so mechanic got T2 slotted. I thought this would be great but after getting it home, they are still solid rotors, not vented. I mentioned to the mechanic multiple times that I wanted vented and he didn’t mention anything, so surprised not to get a call. Let’s hope they worked alot better than OEM replacements I had…

    Also, asked for whiteline adjustable swaybars front and back. got the swaybars but when I asked what the rear was set on got told that they don’t do adjustable for the rear… hmmm would have been good to get a call about that too!

    REAR

    FRONT

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