This topic contains 164 replies, has 22 voices, and was last updated by 
thatotherguy94 3 years, 10 months ago.
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might seem like an odd question but are you fitting cruise control back on it? if you are i’ve got a V8 Cruise module you can have, if you want it. took it off my VS cant fit it because the Torque Power Manifold. keeps getting moved around the shed because its in the way. I dont think i’ll be using it, saves throwing it out.
Ive seen the cruise control done on a TP manifold. Just need to get creative with a bracket
Maybe later, struggling to get the accelerator bracket 100%, if I run one I would like to fit the vt type cause there a bit smaller, then hide it under the gaurd
NickVR
- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264
Nice pick up from UPI. I did the stoneguard treatment too when I did the conversion. Neatens it up nicely.
Car still looks the same but ive been slowly doing stuff and crossing things off my list. Cars ready for the motor to be put in now, just waiting for my extractors to come back from being ceramic coated black. So far I have
-Changed a/c lines and condenser
-Power steering lines
-Cleaned and painted power steering pump
-Fitted trans cooler
-Changed cluster to a V8 one, and reglued broken clips back on
-Changed throttle cable
-Taken tow bar off
-New fuel pump
-Cleaned and polished fuel injector rails
Plus a bunch of other stuff ive cleaned and painted
new condenser, trans cooler and thermo fan fitted
Tow bar removed, still need to plug the holes up (any suggestions?)hope you trial fitted the extractors before ceramic coating, them i had heaps of issues with the the one’s i was fitting to my 355, bought 3 sets in the end, originally had 1 5/8 primary type on it when it was a 5lt, so when i was planning to fit the new engine, i sold them off and bought a set with 1 3/4 primary’s.
First set was competition type with 1 3/4 primary’s didn’t trial fit them first before having them ceramic coated, and they ended up hitting my sump on the driver side, so bought the same type and before ceramic coated modded them to suit the sump, but then the passenger side hit the chassis rail, i rung up pacemaker asking why they are hitting. they made a heap of excuses, i had enough and ended up buying the same type as i originally had on my vs when it was a 5lt
as for the towbar i left the bracing inside my boot, so there are no holes, but mines live axle and the setup looks alot different to what yours is in the photo above
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This reply was modified 8 years, 9 months ago by
exec24.
I hope they fit, I know the rh side cleared everything on the motor and the lh seemed to but I never bolted it to the motor. Tow bar just had a bunch of plates with bolts through them and a bracing plate on the beaver panel behind the bumper which ive left for now
passenger side on the 1 3/4 competition set ran parallel to the chassis rail, with no clearance with the gasket off.
normal 1 5/8 set aren’t quite as bad. but has clearance with gasket on, so should be ok
my towbar runs a brace on the inside of the boot floor, from the very back of the car to the bump in the floor where the diff is. approx 250-300mm wide, left the brace there to keep the holes in the floor sealed, looks quite tidy
didn’t really want to weld them up with the fuel tank underneath it
maybe just get some mudguard washers, put 1 each side of the bolt and short zinc bolts with nylocs and bolt them up and paint everything black
Extractors coated
80L fuel tank painted
New fuel tank in, all breather lines and hoses replaced, also put a new fuel filter in
motor sitting next to the car
Motor and extractors are now in
Managed to get a senator leather console lid, just need to get the rest of the console and that will be complete.
Spent 4 days at clipsal so nothing got done on the weekend
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Tow bar removed, still need to plug the holes up (any suggestions?)
I just went to my local rubber place (Fitch) and picked up some press in rubber bungs that filled the holes nicely.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by
VRSenator065.
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This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by VRSenator065.
HDN05L
- Canberra ACT
- VS Olympic Edt 383 stroker Ute
View build HERE
Posts: 289Starting to come together. Gotta be happy so far.
I have seen that but would rather wait until one with a radio surround comes up
Starting to come together. Gotta be happy so far.
Yes its getting there, will be glad when I can drive it again.
I put a battery in it tonight to test my dash cluster and it turns out it doesnt work (I should have expected it coming from U pull it) and I had no interior light, headlights or central locking, hoping its just something ive forgotten to plug back in..
when you tested the lights/ and central locking did you have all the dash switches in? ie hazard, a/c and demister?
is your dash cluster L2 or L3 whats wrong with it? i have a few L3 clusters in the shed that i use for parts, do you need a couple of top radiator hoses? got them left over from mine if you want them
I have seen that but would rather wait until one with a radio surround comes up
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problem is the rarely ever come up. I sold the one I had but im getting mine remade in real leather to mimic this.
when you tested the lights/ and central locking did you have all the dash switches in? ie hazard, a/c and demister? is your dash cluster L2 or L3 whats wrong with it? i have a few L3 clusters in the shed that i use for parts, do you need a couple of top radiator hoses? got them left over from mine if you want them
I did have them out that night so will recheck when I get a chance. Its a level 3 cluster and just the screen which shows the k’s doesnt work properly, didnt actually turn the car on as such, just on accessories. Radiator hoses im good for, bought a new set a while ago.
I have seen that but would rather wait until one with a radio surround comes up .
problem is the rarely ever come up. I sold the one I had but im getting mine remade in real leather to mimic this.
Im thinking about doing something similar, will look into it in the future, getting the car running and driving is my main priority at the moment
I did have them out that night so will recheck when I get a chance. Its a level 3 cluster and just the screen which shows the k’s doesnt work properly, didnt actually turn the car on as such, just on accessories. Radiator hoses im good for, bought a new set a while ago.
no problem, did you swap the cluster to a v8 one?
also if you still have the v6 cluster you could pull the cluster apart and remove the LCD, and swap them over?
dont forget to flick the fuel tank switch on it to from 70lt to 80lt
Yeah was a v8 cluster, I have another one that i can try
looking at it again the mounting clips are broken on the radio surround
Found the cause of my problems with the central locking and lights, was the little wire from the battery to the loom, it had been crushed and had probably split so swapped that with the one from the v6 loom and my problems were gone.
the wire which caused the problems
and an engine bay shot now looking a bit more complete
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