This topic contains 189 replies, has 23 voices, and was last updated by 
VS 355 UTE 7 years, 11 months ago.
-
Posts
-
that’s a sweet looking bit of kit you got there vs 355 I had to fabricate the plumback for my bov outta stainless wasn’t too big of a job but that looks like a better option
What’s with second pipe off that ??
that’s a sweet looking bit of kit you got there vs 355 I had to fabricate the plumback for my bov outta stainless wasn’t too big of a job but that looks like a better option
Cheers.This was one of the easier moulds i had to tackle.Worked out ok.
What’s with second pipe off that ??
Bypass valve attach’s to the smaller duct.Wanted it plumbed back in so it’s a little less noisy and w/m gets drawn back into the pipework if any vents.
Are yep
iv wondered if it creates pressure flutter when it goes of when plumbed into air filter
a massive amount of air comes out at high rpm
i actually thought its ment to be plumbed into exhaust system but not sure that’s just what I thought
^^wouldnt that massive whoosh of air as you back off just dump a fuck load of compressed air into the intake?
That’s my thoughts to cava
iv had my hand under my bypass valve and giving it a hard sharp rev and doin only sees A couple psi and bearly makes a noise when doin that compared to when driving and it actually builds up boost in the pipes
the old v2 blower use to do big woooosh should, now with v7 it’s more a sharp hard crack noise like a whip noise
i can can tell you that is a lot of air that comes out, so much it’s had me concerned if it would blow my plastic radiator shroud Into the radiator one day
infact its so much I have actually wondered if it would physically be able to travel down a 2 inch pipe of any distance like 600mm to the intake or 2 metres to the exhaust with out having back pressure issues
grp A ute please let me know how it does go and if it gets any flutter noises at all as I’m very interested to know, never seen them actually plumbed back in but have heard it is a legal requirement
I had mine plumbed in just after the pod like grp a has and yeah I only did it for legal reasons but to tell the truth I really didn’t notice any problems with flutter, it did make a fair amount of noise but didn’t seem to affect the car drive wise, it was built 304 with a vortech v1 pumping 20psi so it was dumping a fair bit of air aswell, I miss that thing put a smile on my face every time I drove it
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777
You guys are sounding like a Forced Induction love in, us poor old NA boys will start to feel left out
I don’t have a forced induction ride anymore just recalling the fun I had in the old Calais, staying NA with the ss too mind you it’s gonna get alot crankier as soon I can afford it, home renovating atm is taking up all my time and money but there’s light at the end of the tunnel coz I’ll be alot better off once the house is sold and I’ve got no debt and money to burn lol. Just want to build the ss with a bit more power but keep it driveable coz it’s basically the second family car, then I want to built a turbo Holden stroker and put it in a vg-vs Ute for a bit of fun, the Calais was awesome but I want something that’s an animal to drive, I’d love to go Whipple but I can’t justify the cost I mean it’s probably the best way to go but it’s crazy expensive
Boost is the way. Never will I go back to NA.
It’s definitely the easiest way to make power, the old 304 in the Calais was making 465rwhp and was surprisingly smooth doing it too, the ss doesn’t need to make anywhere near that power and will be staying natro, I just want a bit more than what it has and I’ll be happy
It’s definitely the easiest way to make power, the old 304 in the Calais was making 465rwhp and was surprisingly smooth doing it too, the ss doesn’t need to make anywhere near that power and will be staying natro, I just want a bit more than what it has and I’ll be happy
thats the problem with the 304. Just throwing a cam in generally doesn’t make much more power. Until you start sacrificing drive ability and going bigger cams. But then you need bigger comp etc etc.
you see where I’m going lol.
^^wouldnt that massive whoosh of air as you back off just dump a fuck load of compressed air into the intake?
And the blower will draw that air back in and re compress it,probably quiet a few times until boost is required again.Could even help to draw the charge out of vent piping under the right conditions e.g. blower speed vs boost.The bypass pipe is the same size as the Vortech outlet and the actual valve is less than that,and it’s only 350mm in length.Also i don’t have to vent the volume of air that’s contained in an A2A intercooler and it’s long length of piping compared to how mine is done.Low boost as well,under 10 psi.Vortech have the outlet swaged and recessed for pipe and clamp.
Not saying i have all the answers,i just can’t see it being an issue.I also think maybe it’s just easier to set up non recirculating,so don’t see it as often?
grp A ute please let me know how it does go and if it gets any flutter noises at all as I’m very interested to know, never seen them actually plumbed back in but have heard it is a legal requirement
Will let you know how it goes once it’s sees some boost.
I had mine plumbed in just after the pod like grp a has and yeah I only did it for legal reasons but to tell the truth I really didn’t notice any problems with flutter, it did make a fair amount of noise but didn’t seem to affect the car drive wise, it was built 304 with a vortech v1 pumping 20psi so it was dumping a fair bit of air aswell, I miss that thing put a smile on my face every time I drove it
Healthy 20 psi on the 304.What V1 did you use,T trim or S ?
yeah I know exactly what you mean cava which is why I don’t want to go to crazy with the ss, gonna build another boosted car down the track for some proper fun.
vs 355 my setup had a 1.5″ turbosmart plumb back bov that was literally plumbed straight off the a2a intercooler inlet pipe through the bov and plumbed straight into the induction pipe after the pod behind the bumper on the passenger side short and sweet, like you said though the amount of air the blowers chug down it probably wouldn’t really affect it having a bit of pressure relieved into the intake
Love tuff N/A engines,heaps of “character”,but it was time for a blower.Agree with above it’s just the next step to get the extra power out of the old Holden.If i ever go N/A again it would have to be 400ci plus,so limits the options and lightens the wallet to stay Holden.
From memory I’m pretty sure it was a T trim, I’ll never forget the dentist drill scream the old girl used to make, it was winding pretty hard though used to rev go 7 grand with ease, pretty simple setup though come twin throttle manifold mildly ported heads, forged dished pistons, fully balanced crank and rods, custom boost cam, ewp and 100mm intercooler
Yeah the old Holden definitely isn’t cheap to modify, that’s for sure, I still love em though
Same blower as mine.Your set up is similar to mine except cubes and intercooler.
Not having much experience with centrifugal blowers, can you tell me at what rpm did the T trim start making boost,i’m guessing around 3000 rpm?Mine turns to 7 grand as well so would be interested to gain some info on how it performs from someone who’s owned a T trim.
Yea I would say it started making decent boost a bit before 3grand and from there the power just kept building, it was great fun to drive, at low revs it was well mannered but when you planted it and the revs started building it would fry the tyres in any gear, I’ll never forget cruising along in it at 100-110 and planting it hazing the back tyres in top gear shit it was fun, had a full manual t400 and 3.7 diff
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
