This topic contains 1,175 replies, has 48 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of cava454 cava454 3 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #11484
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Maybe Cav should name her Kym, as in Kym Kardashian, looks like everyone wanted to have a crack at it…

    #11491
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    But only the men followed thru hahahah

    Good news. The rack is all in and sorted. Just need some nylon washers for the rack ends so I can torque then up correctly.

    #11503
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    ^Pics or it didn’t happen  ;-)

    #11506
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    👍

    #11511
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    Looks good, job well done

     

    this gives you more room for decent size pipes now

    #11512
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Yeah exactly. Will be running 1 7/8 for sure.

    #11524
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Yep nice work. You should maybe think about running your fuel lines now, before the motor goes in.  I wish i had. Heaps easier. Just a thought.

    #11526
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    I’ll drop motor in. Dummy everything up and then remove it and do all that stuff. I might just strip all the old likes and go front to back nylon

    #11529
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Just make up your own hard lines, pretty easy, neat, and cheap.

    #11530
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    x2 of doing it in hardline now before the Motor arrives..

    #11532
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    I can make them. I bend copper for a living lol.

     

    I I also had a cool idea of re bending a the hard section of the brake lines. But getting them copper plated haha

    #11534
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    Brake lines are easy as to do

     

    run all 3 out that same hole the front drivers side goes out and run them where ever you want  from there

     

    much neater

     

    all ypu you need is flaring tool and a pipe cutter

    #11535
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Ok. Anyone got some links to

    – Pipe size for the brakes

    – Size for the fuel line + Return

    e85 compliant.

     

    IJ you wouldn’t happen to have benders and flaring tool?

     

     

    Peter did u run all the lines out on the drivers side and around the front of the car to the passenger side?

    #11536
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    I got my brake line from better brakes store local to me and is same as factory line

     

    I got the zinc or what ever it is, it’s same as what is in your car now, it is extremely easy to work with, I didn’t even use a bender, I just bent it by hand that is how easy it is

    Can get stainless steel but it’s fucked to work with

     

    get a few of the end fittings as well, you will see there is 2 different sizes on your master cyilendar, just take that in so you get the right sizes and rest should all be same as smaller size (like where it joins to braided lines at all 4 wheels and the T block down rear of car)

     

    all this is cheap as

     

    i run run my front drivers side out that hole just under the master, then foward to radiator support, then across that at the back and up under the flat lip of it if that makes sense, just held it up with some P clamps then it’s easy to run across to the wheel where it connects to the braided line

     

     

    #11537
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    The rear I just went out that same hole and it just crosses over the chassis rail when the rail has a big bend upwards in it near bell housing area

     

    from there it’s all in factory spot

     

    fuel Line go an8 feed and return unless you want to run 1000+hp then go to 5/8

     

    fuel line size is actually done on LPH flow but I trust you won’t be running 4 by 044 pumps to run a stock or mild LSA engine

     

    people get return size wrong all the time, it should be same size or preferabley a size bigger then feed line

     

    unless ss you have a pump controller in witch you can go smaller if you want but the reason is when fuel comes out of the regulator it decompresses to 0 psi, when it does this it releases air bubbles

     

    (same affect as people getting the bends when coming to the surface to quickly getting air bubbles in there blood)

     

    you ou want absolute 0 pressure in return line other wise all these bubbles won’t release and instead they will release when it gets into serge tank, this causes the fuel pump to Pick up bubbles and cavatate

     

    If you run a smaller return line this air bubble problem can arises, this will be why aftermarket industries serg tanks have all an8 feed and return fittings and an8 over flow so it’s never pressurised apart from feed line

     

    fuelab prodigy pumps suffer so badly from this they suggest running an8 feed an10 return and an10 over flow back to main tank

    #11540
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Ok. Anyone got some links to – Pipe size for the brakes – Size for the fuel line + Return e85 compliant. IJ you wouldn’t happen to have benders and flaring tool? Peter did u run all the lines out on the drivers side and around the front of the car to the passenger side?

    I do but I’m not big on loaning out tools sorry..

    #11541
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    All good mate. No stress.

     

    Pete sounds good. Do you have any snaps?

    I’ll be running a 2 pump Sp800/1200

    #11542
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    I’ll get some pics today for ya

     

    got to this one of how they go out that hole

    Yeah running sp1200 dual pump do an8 feed and return, will work perfectly

     

    #11543
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
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    Look what I just found goin through my push account

     

    can see the cut on VS end and the VL intermediate shaft I throw in the bin with all the little meddle rollers and caps

     

    #11544
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Mate sent me this link. http://www.blowerworks.biz/docs/ptfueler.html

     

    Some good info

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