This topic contains 1,175 replies, has 48 voices, and was last updated by cava454 3 years ago.
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November 20, 2015 at 4:45 pm #11484
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Maybe Cav should name her Kym, as in Kym Kardashian, looks like everyone wanted to have a crack at it…
November 20, 2015 at 5:29 pm #11491But only the men followed thru hahahah
Good news. The rack is all in and sorted. Just need some nylon washers for the rack ends so I can torque then up correctly.
November 21, 2015 at 9:35 am #11503
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777^Pics or it didn’t happen
November 21, 2015 at 9:58 am #11506👍
November 21, 2015 at 6:38 pm #11511Looks good, job well done
this gives you more room for decent size pipes now
November 21, 2015 at 6:38 pm #11512Yeah exactly. Will be running 1 7/8 for sure.
November 21, 2015 at 10:20 pm #11524
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Yep nice work. You should maybe think about running your fuel lines now, before the motor goes in. I wish i had. Heaps easier. Just a thought.
November 22, 2015 at 3:44 am #11526I’ll drop motor in. Dummy everything up and then remove it and do all that stuff. I might just strip all the old likes and go front to back nylon
November 22, 2015 at 8:10 am #11529
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Just make up your own hard lines, pretty easy, neat, and cheap.
November 22, 2015 at 8:49 am #11530x2 of doing it in hardline now before the Motor arrives..
November 22, 2015 at 10:29 am #11532I can make them. I bend copper for a living lol.
I I also had a cool idea of re bending a the hard section of the brake lines. But getting them copper plated haha
November 22, 2015 at 10:49 am #11534Brake lines are easy as to do
run all 3 out that same hole the front drivers side goes out and run them where ever you want from there
much neater
all ypu you need is flaring tool and a pipe cutter
November 22, 2015 at 10:51 am #11535Ok. Anyone got some links to
– Pipe size for the brakes
– Size for the fuel line + Return
e85 compliant.
IJ you wouldn’t happen to have benders and flaring tool?
Peter did u run all the lines out on the drivers side and around the front of the car to the passenger side?
November 22, 2015 at 11:01 am #11536I got my brake line from better brakes store local to me and is same as factory line
I got the zinc or what ever it is, it’s same as what is in your car now, it is extremely easy to work with, I didn’t even use a bender, I just bent it by hand that is how easy it is
Can get stainless steel but it’s fucked to work with
get a few of the end fittings as well, you will see there is 2 different sizes on your master cyilendar, just take that in so you get the right sizes and rest should all be same as smaller size (like where it joins to braided lines at all 4 wheels and the T block down rear of car)
all this is cheap as
i run run my front drivers side out that hole just under the master, then foward to radiator support, then across that at the back and up under the flat lip of it if that makes sense, just held it up with some P clamps then it’s easy to run across to the wheel where it connects to the braided line
November 22, 2015 at 11:14 am #11537The rear I just went out that same hole and it just crosses over the chassis rail when the rail has a big bend upwards in it near bell housing area
from there it’s all in factory spot
fuel Line go an8 feed and return unless you want to run 1000+hp then go to 5/8
fuel line size is actually done on LPH flow but I trust you won’t be running 4 by 044 pumps to run a stock or mild LSA engine
people get return size wrong all the time, it should be same size or preferabley a size bigger then feed line
unless ss you have a pump controller in witch you can go smaller if you want but the reason is when fuel comes out of the regulator it decompresses to 0 psi, when it does this it releases air bubbles
(same affect as people getting the bends when coming to the surface to quickly getting air bubbles in there blood)
you ou want absolute 0 pressure in return line other wise all these bubbles won’t release and instead they will release when it gets into serge tank, this causes the fuel pump to Pick up bubbles and cavatate
If you run a smaller return line this air bubble problem can arises, this will be why aftermarket industries serg tanks have all an8 feed and return fittings and an8 over flow so it’s never pressurised apart from feed line
fuelab prodigy pumps suffer so badly from this they suggest running an8 feed an10 return and an10 over flow back to main tank
- This reply was modified 8 years, 11 months ago by vs manta 218.
November 22, 2015 at 11:34 am #11540Ok. Anyone got some links to – Pipe size for the brakes – Size for the fuel line + Return e85 compliant. IJ you wouldn’t happen to have benders and flaring tool? Peter did u run all the lines out on the drivers side and around the front of the car to the passenger side?
I do but I’m not big on loaning out tools sorry..
November 22, 2015 at 11:47 am #11541All good mate. No stress.
Pete sounds good. Do you have any snaps?
I’ll be running a 2 pump Sp800/1200
November 22, 2015 at 11:53 am #11542I’ll get some pics today for ya
got to this one of how they go out that hole
Yeah running sp1200 dual pump do an8 feed and return, will work perfectly
November 22, 2015 at 11:56 am #11543Look what I just found goin through my push account
can see the cut on VS end and the VL intermediate shaft I throw in the bin with all the little meddle rollers and caps
November 22, 2015 at 1:08 pm #11544Mate sent me this link. http://www.blowerworks.biz/docs/ptfueler.html
Some good info
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