This topic contains 1,175 replies, has 48 voices, and was last updated by cava454 3 years, 1 month ago.
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August 6, 2017 at 6:31 pm #23931
Judge1 FrazerParticipant- new zealand
- 1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed
View build HERE
Posts: 775Funny or weird when I got the vb 5.0 went fine but after 6 months of it being off the road mate came up and we went to start it and it started with out an issue few weeks later realised there was no earth from body to motor so not sure how it started
August 6, 2017 at 6:36 pm #23932Magic
Probably using every other ground in the car….
August 6, 2017 at 6:50 pm #23933Didn’t know u can too much. Battery will be in boot so a few grounds will be changed.
Funny u mention the engine earth. When the cable on my ute come loose it would die even whilst moving.
Battery, stater, alternator, Engine trans and x member.
August 6, 2017 at 7:29 pm #23934
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Yep as a fully qualified radio electronics tradesman I can tell you earth loops are something most people don’t understand. Actually earthing in general is not well understood. Isolating is often worse than earthing.
August 6, 2017 at 8:05 pm #23935
Judge1 FrazerParticipant- new zealand
- 1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed
View build HERE
Posts: 775Hey cava this may be worth something or nothing depends on your thoughts reservoir for the intercooler fluid
August 6, 2017 at 8:41 pm #23936Cheers mate.
I’ve got a 15L ice box in the boot. My cooling system should be MORE then capable now.
August 7, 2017 at 12:25 pm #23950Had another tinker today. Got the HX all mounted. Used rubber gromits. Can confidently say it’s not touching any of the body nor is any of the fasteners used.
August 7, 2017 at 1:52 pm #23951One way to tell for sure test it with a multimeter on continuity
August 7, 2017 at 2:02 pm #23952That’s along way away lol. But a brother in law has an analogue one which is handy.
August 7, 2017 at 2:09 pm #23953Nah I mean a normal Digi one will work for the continuity test Cav.
Just hook one lead to the exchanger and one to a good ground on the body, if it beeps there’s an issue.
August 7, 2017 at 2:58 pm #23954didn’t you say earlierit has to be analogue ?
August 7, 2017 at 3:08 pm #23955didn’t you say earlierit has to be analogue ?
Yes for the stray current test, this is just a test to make sure it’s 100% isolated from the Chassis.
August 7, 2017 at 5:00 pm #23960Gotcha. Need to be spoon fed some times lol.
Have u seen or had anything to do with with eunninga sacrificial anode?
August 7, 2017 at 5:09 pm #23961Never used them in cars but lots of Boat engines have them.
August 7, 2017 at 6:03 pm #23965Yeah I’ve seen them on boats before. I might whip one of these then the bleed port.
August 7, 2017 at 6:15 pm #23967Awesome, never seen those before!
August 7, 2017 at 7:23 pm #23970I might get 2. One for the HX and another for the radiator.
The one on the HX can screw striaght into the bleed port.
On the radiator I’ll buy one of those inline tee pieces and screw it into that. It will also act as a drain port for when I need to dump the coolant system. Makes life easier and a lot less messy.
August 7, 2017 at 8:31 pm #23971
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I would be speaking to PWR about the right way to set it up as well.
August 7, 2017 at 9:31 pm #23972My thoughts would be they need to be directly mounted to what you’re trying to protect and won’t work mounted in a hose…
August 7, 2017 at 10:03 pm #23973Hose is the only option for the radiator. It’s got no other provisions.
im probably over thinking this
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by cava454.
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