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This topic contains 2,102 replies, has 82 voices, and was last updated by VRSenator065 3 years, 6 months ago.
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July 9, 2016 at 8:07 pm #18306
I have ID 1000’s in my xr6 turbo,wanted to get the same injector for the 355 but they don’t supply a full length one and i didn’t want the adapter.The X spurt 1000 is available in the longer length so i bought a set of those.I’m assuming yours are also full length?
July 9, 2016 at 8:14 pm #18309If your going e85 the ID 1300 are better for it. They have stainless inserts.
I had to tell Peter numeral times his tail lights looked junk, before he seen the light.
July 10, 2016 at 1:31 pm #18319
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I picked mine based on the flow I need though, no way I want bigger than 725, the injector is fine. I think you may be confusing what I mean by the electrical plug adapter vs the length adapter. The length adapter isn’t an issue, only problem was they were supplied bright purple, out of pure aesthetics I changed them to black. all they are is a turned aluminum cylinder, there is nothing to fail. The electrical adapter is just one of those things, again its no real problem, its just makes it bulky, although twice the electrical connections means twice the possibility of it being unreliable. So I have bought set of electrical plugs that my mate and i will just swap the loom to, so I don’t need to run the electrical adapter. On another note, having fixed the exhaust leak, was less rich, so tuner thinks it was messing up the O2 sensor causing it to add more fuel. Anyhow its on the dyno, will see how it goes this week.
July 11, 2016 at 6:00 pm #18350All good,understand what you said, just thought you might not have known that the full length ones were available. Most probably not an issue but if i can reduce another 8 o rings where a leak can develop i’ll go with that injector.The injectors adapters look a lot better black.I also have the connector adapters and i think they might be a little tall for my loom,tackle that later.
I also calculated on intended flow(xr6) and ordered the same 750cc injector as yours through a dealer in Sydney.When they arrived they were 1000cc.One phone call later and i was told that the boss man of I.D. said the larger injector was better than the smaller one and that’s what he recommended them for the Ford!!Luckily they’ve been great and the reason i want the same injector for the 355.
July 12, 2016 at 8:30 am #18371
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Interesting, I have been in contact with injector Dynamics, and they recommended the ones I have for mine. I am far from “Mr Injector” but does seem there is a little more too it than just straight out picking one for one reason. All good though, waiting to see how it spins up on the rollers this time around.
July 12, 2016 at 1:24 pm #18372Boosted is different to Na.
FYI. Soon as you clicked 50pages, it’s started taking us to your first page when we click latest post. Like it was with Ian
July 12, 2016 at 1:29 pm #18373
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Thanks for the tip re the pages thing Cav, will get Georgie onto it. Def agree boosted different to NA. As I understand it even the fuel pump set up and spec is a little different? I think its due to the fast peak in demand when it boosts, vs the more even demand of large cube NA?
July 17, 2016 at 4:11 pm #18496What page is the photos of where you cut the headers to make them fit.
I gave up after 10minutes searching lol.
Ok you got me. It was more like 10seconds.
July 18, 2016 at 9:13 am #18516
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Hey mate not sure there were a heap of pics of the pipes actually cut. But pretty much we just cut through the flange as shown below. They come already split into two, this just makes them separate pipes. Actually i found last week end when I had to change the exhaust manifold gasket it made it relatively easy.
July 18, 2016 at 10:12 am #18524Yeah I split mine in 2 also. I got the 2 rear pipes in. But couldn’t fit the front 2. I was hesitant with cutting it down the center bolt hole tho.
Did it seal up well?
July 18, 2016 at 10:17 am #18525
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Yea it did i think. I didn’t seem to get any play really, and it really pulls up with the bolts exactly like before anyways. I do have ARP bolts which have a nice chunky washers to help though as well.
July 18, 2016 at 11:15 am #18529Yeah I was thinking of using an arp stud on that one.
July 18, 2016 at 11:48 am #18532
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777My advice ditch the stud idea. I had them and when I did the gasket this time I have chucked them and gone to ARP bolts for them all. Trouble is to get gasket off/on you need to pull the header right off the stud which given there is no room between the pipe and the chassis is very difficult. Before you say it the internal hex in the stud to allow removal, they round off and are stuffed after the first use. And using the two nut technique is too tricky at the rear. With the pipes separated its actually very easy to hand screw each bolt in the first few threads so you know your not stuffing the thread then tighten. On the rear most one by the brake booster its a pig because of the cross over exhaust pipe. I actually used a stainless socket head cap screw there as with a hex driver in a 3/8 socket with a short extension bar you can start it by hand relatively easily before tightening. With a regular socket and ARP bolt there is too much wobble if that makes sense. Hope that helps.
July 18, 2016 at 12:06 pm #18535Yeah makes sense. I didn’t tho lol
thinking stud on just that one bolt where I had to slice down the center bolt hole. The rear bank is 1 piece. So in total 3 pieces. 1 double and 2 singles.
Milk use factory bolts everywhere else. They really are a “Cnut” of a header. Piece of shit things.
July 18, 2016 at 12:58 pm #18536
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I wouldn’t even use one stud, no point, will just get in the way Just make sure you have a nice thick flat washer and your set.
July 24, 2016 at 11:02 pm #18703
Slow355Participant- Victoria
- hectic spec 355 vs ss ute
View build HERE
Posts: 322When you fitted the pro ratchet shifter did you use the standard cable from box or did you run a new longer cable? Did you have to change anything other than what came with the shifter in the kit
munch munch ls1s for lunch
Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8secJuly 25, 2016 at 10:00 pm #18707
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I actually hate admitting this but I didn’t actually physically fit the drop box. I got the boys when they did the glide to do it as just didn’t have the time, and it was up on their hoist. I don’t remember anything different, pretty sure it was standard cable. It was tight getting it all in there with the CAE headers I know that. And we made up a nice mount for the speed sensor and pressed on a chopper disc to the front of the drive shaft for the speedo as I used an aftermarket output shaft.
July 31, 2016 at 3:56 pm #18811
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Well, a bit of a set back back unfortunately. Looks like we have killed an ignition lead, the one at the drivers rear, that has more or less melted through, which has then got the coil pack arcing across its body and gone close to killing it :( So met Stephen at his shop earlier and we had a go over it. Its all tuned and running nicely at light throttle but he doesn’t want to risk putting it under load until the coil pack is fixed.
The problem is behind the injection across the firewall has never really been as good/neat as I want it. When the electrician first wired it all up he did just routed the cable back there roughly, also the lingenfelter trigger box is just flopping around back there. I originally mounted a vacuum manifold for the lines off the inlet but thats changed a bit since then too, it all could be a lot simpler. It just not easy to work on, diagnose or fix. Basically I don’t like that.
So time has come I think to bite the bullet and unbolt and remove the injection, then spend some time and mount the cable loom properly with P clips etc, also tidy up the vac lines, and swap the coil, and get it all much simpler and neater back there. I really am not going to leave that to anyone else I want to take the time to do it right, like should have happened the first time. So back home its coming, I will then get that sorted, then Stephen is going to come up and finish off the tune on the highway.
All part of the fun of a custom car though
July 31, 2016 at 4:25 pm #18812Put them under your wiper cowl.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by cava454.
July 31, 2016 at 5:11 pm #18816
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777They are good where they are, its all the other mess just needs tidying. Not sure they would fit without surgery anyway?
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