This topic contains 380 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer 3 years ago.

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  • #29535
    Profile photo of Immortality
    Immortality
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    Member since: August 31, 2015
    Posts: 535

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzTz227uWCk

    At about the 30 minute mark they show how a supercharger belt behaves with a manual tensioner and then how a OEM style tensioner maintains belt tension.  This car was loosing 100hp due to belt slip even with the manual tensioner tightened as much as they could get it.

    #29991
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Hey all can some tell me the thread pitch for the engine mounts on the lsa I have four two on each side 10/1.50 but it won’t go into the other four  , are they suppose to be the same

    #29994
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    I always thought they were m10x1.0

    #29995
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Pretty sure mine are all the same.  M10x1 is very fine Cav, I think that’s the rear irs drive shaft bolts. I am thinking m10x1.5.

    #29996
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    cava454
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    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Pretty sure mine are all the same. M10x1 is very fine Cav, I think that’s the rear irs drive shaft bolts. I am thinking m10x1.5.</p>

    Your probably right….. but imcertain the bolts on each side are all the same size.  One of the bolts on the passenger side head is slightly longer as it has the bracket for the alternator support on it also.

    You can find a photo of this on my thread on the last page.

    #29998
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Cheers Guys I would assume they would all be the same m10x 1.5 fits on four but binds up on the other four may have to put a thread tap in there see if there is sit in there

    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer. Reason: spelling
    #30000
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Doesn’t hurt to run a tap in there by hand just to clean it all up.

    #30005
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    yip have rechecked them and m10.150 bind up and a 3/8 binds up too so will have to tap them, I thought maybe one or to  be screwed but not four both front ones

    #30202
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Hey all got some fuel rails this week aero flow really nicely made put them on but before that trim the aluminium from the back of the blower so  can get fittings in there later ,have also order the starter relocation kit should be here next week , A mate is coming up for Bathurst tomorrow so going to pull motor put gear box on and sort out were motor and box will sit

    20191012_085028 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191012_171009 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    Looks good from drivers seat

    20191012_171028 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    #30224
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    busy weekend trimmed the sump mated the gearbox to the motor and slipped it in ,gearbox is good where it is motor has a 3degree lean back but would be nice to lower motor down more I have the motor sitting back a lot also got my CRS starter conversion kit looks good will fit it when motor comes out and trim the bellhousing  going to see what a 25mm spacer is like under x member

    Sump trimmed

    20191013_162716 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191013_162726 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    motor mated to gearbox

    20191013_164615 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191013_164636 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    motor and box in

    20191013_212522 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    sits high

    20191013_212541 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191013_212557 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191014_172019 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    #30238
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    How nice does it look in there though!!  Nice work on the sump.  Do you know if an engineer will pass it with spacers under the K frame?

    #30240
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Good luck with keeping the sump flat when you weld it up…

    Gonna be a fun toy when it’s done  :yes:

    #30243
    Profile photo of Immortality
    Immortality
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    #30244
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    How nice does it look in there though!! Nice work on the sump. Do you know if an engineer will pass it with spacers under the K frame?

    Hey Gary Yip looks awesome in the bay ,as for spacers the engine certifier suggested them to me

    Good luck with keeping the sump flat when you weld it up… Gonna be a fun toy when it’s done

    what you telling me I can not keep the race tape and carboard :wacko:

    #30245
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Is it waxed cardboard?  :yes:

    Have seen a few try and fail, I’d try and bolt it to a block and preheat it before starting, might have some success that way not sure..

     

    #30260
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Good to know it’s legal, nice and easy.

    #30261
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Good to know it’s legal, nice and easy.

    Yip here in nz not sure in oz just got to make sure the recesses are in the space so they are kind of locked in so mirror x member

    #30262
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    forgot to mention that I had to tap out 6 bolt holes “total” in the block 4 in the mounts and two for the bellhousing were slightly cross threaded  all perfect now  , got some 10mm plate for the start of the mounts going to cut the x member mounts off and move them back so I can run the air con pump , the motor is sitting back 30-40mm (I’m guessing here ) from where it would sit with of the shelf mounts be it TUFF or CRS , pros and con more room in one place less in others will just have to work around it less weight forward is a good thing , means I can bring radiator back towards motor , more room in front for aircon radiator and interchiller setups plus going to have radiator lower for a custom otr (air intake)  modifying the snout and throttle to turn more into centre, big plans

    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer. Reason: spelling
    #30271
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
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    forgot to mention that I had to tap out 6 bolt holes “total” in the block 4 in the mounts and two for the bellhousing were slightly cross treaded all perfect now , got some 10mm plate for the start of the mounts going to cut the x member mounts off and move them back so I can run the air con pump , the motor is sitting back 30-40mm (I’m guessing here ) from where it would sit with of the shelf mounts be it TUFF or CRS , pros and con more room in one place less in others will just have to work around it less weight forward is a good thing , means I can bring radiator back towards motor , more room in front for aircon radiator and interchiller setups plus going to have radiator lower for a custom otr (air intake) modifying the snout and throttle to turn more into centre, big plans

    What are you trying to achieve. You have lost me

     

    #30288
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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