VB LSA Commodore build

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

^I saw that today, is it legal?  I sort of find it hard to believe an engineer would pass something structural like that without a lot of testing and evaluation?

• This reply was modified 5 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

interesting cava but would not be legal here

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

VRSenator065 wrote:

^I saw that today, is it legal? I sort of find it hard to believe an engineer would pass something structural like that without a lot of testing and evaluation?

Your right Gary I ask about cutting mine and he just said no not without a lot of paperwork and f^&king around  be all good for a race car

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Apparently it meets ADR

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

cava454 wrote:

Apparently it meets ADR

Interesting.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

And yet a 30+ year old original is still fine to use 

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Anonymous wrote:

And yet a 30+ year old original is still fine to use

yes and I plan to put 7 time the power sitting on it from what the six cylinder was

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Lmao 

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Actually thinking about it I welded and gusseted mine and the engineer had no issue with it.  Man that starter would get hot down there!  It’s busy enough on that side without it.

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Actually thinking about it I welded and gusseted mine and the engineer had no issue with it. Man that starter would get hot down there! It’s busy enough on that side without it.

Yes you did but not the man part going between the chassis rails , with that modified one I’m not sure how the steering would work it’s moved back maybe 60mm surely it would throw the steering out

Just an idea if I could cut 20mm out of the height of x member where the sump sits reinforce it so it still looks factory then lower the rack plus 20mm spacers on the chassis ,, just an idea I have a spare x member so could have a play

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

I still can’t work out what the meaning for all this is?

Can you enlighten me?

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

cava454 wrote:

I still can’t work out what the meaning for all this is? Can you enlighten me?

Might be trying to keep it under the bonnet without having to use a cowl.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Judge1 Frazer wrote:

Just an idea if I could cut 20mm out of the height of x member where the sump sits reinforce it so it still looks factory then lower the rack plus 20mm spacers on the chassis.

IJ is probably better to answer this, but I would think if you lower the rack 20mm, you would need to also lower the ball joint mounts out at the wheel hubs to keep the steering geometry correct.  Can’t see an engineer liking that though…

• This reply was modified 5 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Judge1 Frazer wrote:

Just an idea if I could cut 20mm out of the height of x member where the sump sits reinforce it so it still looks factory then lower the rack plus 20mm spacers on the chassis.

IJ is probably better to answer this, but I would think if you lower the rack 20mm, you would need to also lower the ball joint mounts out at the wheel hubs to keep the steering geometry correct. Can’t see an engineer liking that though…

Hey Gary would be no different to putting spacers between chassis and x member and we went though that a page or two ago

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

cava454 wrote:

I still can’t work out what the meaning for all this is? Can you enlighten me?

 

Hey Cava, I am just going about things a different way throwing things out there just to see if it makes a difference , I know I will need a bonnet scoop , bulge or something but I don’t want a scoop had all the plastic and fibreglass shit on the vk so my intent is to build a bugle(like the falcons BA) and at this stage the motor is too high as it needs to start from about 300 up the bonnet and smooth back down before the grille flutes at the back of the vb bonnet ,,, yes I can buy of the shelf kits to make this work but I have the skills to make it work my way, I hope this answers some ??????

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Ahh ok. So bonnet clearance is the thing. You need to drop the whole lot  otherwise your Tb will clash also

K frame spacers and CTSV Lid. Done.

• This reply was modified 5 years ago by  cava454.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Judge1 Frazer wrote:

Hey Gary would be no different to putting spacers between chassis and x member and we went though that a page or two ago

Yep, prob me just overthinking it again…

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

worked on the car over the long weekend labour day here nz  pulled the motor out put some 25mm spacers on the k frame removed the brakes, booster, firewall lining ,brake line, fuel lines just to have clean engine bay , fitted the left hand starter kit fits well, modified the bellhouse for starter and trimmed of the other side where the original starter sat, new pilot bearing in put flywheel and clutch on awesome no need for a spline tool gear box matted up and back in the bay looks better but may go the 48mm spacers I think would make a huge difference in motor height , also made the flat 10mm plates for the start on the engine mounts, cut the drivers side k frame mount off for the a/c got the a/c bracket but will have to modify that to make it work might have to tickle the frame rail a little bit

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

48mm is quite a lot. I’d draw the line at 25mm

Either mill the lid and gain some clearance or change to a ctsv lid.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

It does seem a lot.  Just trying to imagine that, so it would basically make the bottom of the front K member that much lower assuming the body of the car is at the same height right?  That would make it pretty bloody low, less than 100mm which is legal min-height here in Oz I am guessing?

[Author]

Posts