HomeForumsTechnical – GeneralDrivelineThe Stall Converter Thread

This topic contains 27 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of [TUFFVQ] [TUFFVQ] 9 years, 8 months ago.

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  • #2348
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Ok, so interested in people’s opinions. I have been told you want to set your stall where you make peak torque. Opinions?

    #2359
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    ajvx01
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    Are we talking street or strip?

    #2363
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Good point, I am interested in the difference for street and strip. Pretty much would like to try and get an understanding of the theory behind it all :)

    #2364
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    ajvx01
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    I was told (and I’m sure someone knows better than me!) street use you choose a cam suited for when your cam starts its ideal rev range and strip you choose one for when your engine is at peak hp.

    But honestly I’d like to know more so hopefully some one can correct me haha.

    #2386
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    cava454
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    100-200rpm above PEAK TORQUE is the sweet spot track of strip.

    Give the the car the converter it needs and it will do what it’s meant to do.

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 9 months ago by Profile photo of cava454 cava454.
    #2407
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    So the idea then is to get the engine immediately onto where its making torque, then let it pull like that using the converter until the converter locks up, then it revs to maximum rpm (usually peak power) then change gears and repeat?

    Makes sense if that the idea?

    #2431
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    cava454
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    Max torque to get the car moving as quick as possible.

    It happens in an instant.

    No way would my shitty 304 be as quick as it is with a smaller stall.

    #2434
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    It happens in an instant.

    Especially with a trans brake ha ha

    #4428
    Profile photo of [TUFFVQ]
    [TUFFVQ]
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    Agreed – i run a 4200rpm flash stall on the street in mine. Still has lockup.

    If it was factory stall then it’d easily knock a second off the quarter mile time and be boring to drive.

    Secret to a good street stall is to set it to lockup at or slightly above peak torque, but make sure it’s a tight stall, so you can potter around in it as you need.

    #4431
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    So there are two things, the stall speed, and how “tight” it is? Didn’t really know that. How is that controlled, is that how the guy builds the converter, can it be changed?

    #4497
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    The USA Companies can offer Different Stators to tailor the “Feel” Chris at Circle D built mine to suit my combination, not sure if any of the AU Builders can offer this.

    #4498
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    cava454
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    The USA Companies can offer Different Stators to tailor the “Feel” Chris at Circle D built mine to suit my combination, not sure if any of the AU Builders can offer this.

    They sure can. Just got to use a reputable builder.

    #4499
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Thanks Cava, I used an off the shelf Dominator in mine at first and for daily driving it was very loose, the Circle D by comparison drives like stock till you get on it, only time you know it’s in there normally is low throttle from a stop it flares a bit.

    #4500
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    cava454
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    Should have said. Reputable builder thats actually good lol

    cant go past TCE

    #4623
    Profile photo of [TUFFVQ]
    [TUFFVQ]
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    Agreed with above – i had a 3000rpm dominator off the shelf and now this 4200rpm off the shelf. The dominator was a bit tighter, but neither of the convertors are what you would call ‘tight’.

    However i paid $300 for the dominator then straight swapped it to some low life for the 4200 so I can’t complain.

    #4632
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    So whats the story behind how tight it is. Is that what they refer too as “flare” so how easily it flashes up to the stall speed? So on a streeter you want it tighter so its possible to drive around under the stall speed and it will still drive, whereas if it was looser, it will slip too much for a road car up to the stall but because race car that what you want. Is that sort of how it works?

    #4654
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    So whats the story behind how tight it is. Is that what they refer too as “flare” so how easily it flashes up to the stall speed? So on a streeter you want it tighter so its possible to drive around under the stall speed and it will still drive, whereas if it was looser, it will slip too much for a road car up to the stall but because race car that what you want. Is that sort of how it works?

    My understanding is the Stator sets the amount of Torque Multiplication so will “feel” tighter but still Stall/Flash as high as a traditional “loose” convertor making it much nicer to drive on the Street.

    #4655
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    Might have to go and pick the brain of my converter guru before he build mine, really want to get my head around this and make sure its right for I want. Like everything, always a few layers to the onion :)

    #4658
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    cava454
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    Gary. Call TCE Tell them all ur specs and what u want and they WILL deliver.

    #4659
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    Narva*2010
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    +1  TCE.

    I use a 5200 stall, not an off the shelf job so you do pay a bit more.  But it drives very smoothly and does it’s job when you accelerate.  Just have to remember to update cooling capabilties of auto with higher stall converter.  Stacked plate style oil cooler was the better type when I was looking.

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