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Bugger,it would be much less weight saving for a vp ute unless they do tailgates instead of 2 rear soors lol.
Never noticed could get decent aftermarket parts for th350…finding good case is hard enough.
Usually just see th400 or p/glide parts advertised
Can get pretty much all of it aftermarket now, they get used in a lot of cars in the USA due to the weight/length, I lucked out with this case it’s mint but there are a lot of case savers on the market now so it’s fairly easy to resurrect old damaged cases.
LOL yeah not a lot of savings weight wise in a Ute, at least you’d be getting it off the end that counts and might help overall balance but still not good bang for the $$$
I asked about have full glass windows with the winder mechanisms in a fibreglass door. Alpha Motorsports said it couldn’t be done.
As always happy to be corrected Mick, someone told me it could be but it’d be a non issue for me I’d be going Lexan anyway.
I “think”if I cut out the intrusion beams and frames the steel doors will be close to the weight of the fibreglass doors anyway, strip the motors and glass out and end up at the same weight for 1/4 the outlay.
Was out doing some more on the Trans, As I’m adding more clutches I had to machine the piston to give them room to fit, this is a good thing as it allows me to set the end float perfectly!
Got that done and did a test fit of the new shaft into the case so I could check/adjust the end float of the assembly in the case… BZZZZZZ do not pass go…
BUGGER something wasn’t right so I started measuring all of the new parts and compared them to what had come out thinking they may have changed something to add in a needle roller as I had a 3mm gap..
Everything checked out fine so dug in a bit deeper, turns out the new Stator bushes I installed in the Pump the other day are a touch undersize in the bores, maybe to allow for a bit of shaft wear in a 40 year old box, not so flash with a brand new shaft though.
Light hone on the bushes test fit and repeat till I got a nice slip fit, mocked up the Trans again and all good measured it up and installed the correct amount of shims, done!
Too damn hot out there to do anymore today, cooling down the next couple of days so I’ll knock it over then!
Too hot up here also to go in garage lol.
Had a look at those fibreglass doors on fb by looks of them you could chop up your existing metal doors to weigh nearly the same…looks like windows get screwed into frame on their doors
They’d be ok for rear doors but not being able to wind windows down would peeve me badly on a cruise.
Liking the fine tolerances your keeping!
We have to have the drivers window up when racing, I run with the rears down about 30mm as the boot is sealed off from the cabin so there’s no flow through from the roof vent otherwise…
Might do the weight savings thing once I get the mechanicals sorted, I “think” I could knock around 100 Kg’s off it for about $500 in Lexan windows, if I do it I’ll cut some holes along the tops of the rears for ventilation and make a slider to close em off in transit, when sitting in the staging lanes I can always have the door open, no insulation at all in the car so it’s around 50c most days… Had to install false floors after a Mates runner melted..
Thanks have found with Auto builds it pays to keep em as tight as possible!
“Happiness is a Tight Tranny”
Finished!
Off to the Trans Dyno today to make sure it works before I put it back in the car!
On the Trans Dyno last night to test it all works seeing this is my first TH350 build, assembled it all this morning before it got too hot to work here!
As always happy to be corrected Mick, someone told me it could be but it’d be a non issue for me I’d be going Lexan anyway. I “think”if I cut out the intrusion beams and frames the steel doors will be close to the weight of the fibreglass doors anyway, strip the motors and glass out and end up at the same weight for 1/4 the outlay.
If it can be done, I’d like to know. I would probably save money by going 4 fibreglass doors then getting 4 doors rust repaired.
After I’d bolted it all up the other day I noticed I’d gotten the indexing of the Transfer case a touch off.. wasn’t much only around 1.5 degrees but it was enough by the time you got out to the front drive that it was 25>30mm lower… DOH
Figured ahh well shit happens I have a spare blank there I’ll make a new one, this morning in bed I had an idea.. If I rotated the adaptor 90 degrees with any luck I can just redrill it as I’d left it round instead of matching the case profile!
Only “bug” in that idea is on the 4L60e the pattern isn’t symmetrical but I figured the 350 being 40+ years old when people weren’t stupid and knew which way up things went maybe it would be symmetrical and I could just turn it!
Whoo hoo had a Win for a change, 1.5 hours later the rework is done and it’s all straight, in the pics if you sight along the rib on the Trans then to the top Nut on the Transfer case you can see how little it was out..
Might have got away with it but it would have disturbed the OCD Force
Anal cunt. Lol
Anal cunt. Lol
You called?
Immortality
- 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais
View build HERE
Posts: 535That’s why we do things ourselves so we know it’s done right
That’s why we do things ourselves so we know it’s done right
In my case that’s exactly right, got sick and tired of paying $$$ for half assed work at best and total ripoffs at worst..
There’s no way known I’d have been able to pay someone to build this car and even if I could it would still be getting built probably for the 4th or 5th time after multiple “Experts” had screwed the pooch..
Immortality
- 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais
View build HERE
Posts: 535That’s fairly much why I do most of my own work too. Got a bum deal very early on playing with cars. Thankfully it was a lesson learnt early and not to costly if not frustrating.
Yep been screwed over a few times when I’ve had to rely on “Experts”…
Hence why I’m a jack of all trades and will take the time to research how to do things myself, there’s only a few things I don’t do even though I’m capable as they require massive outlays of cash for the equipment such as Boring and Balancing, pretty much everything else I do myself, I have a good group of trustworthy people I can get advice from that I trust, other than that I take most claims of knowledge with a grain of salt and wait until they prove they’re not full of shit.
A bit harsh but it’s through experience I’ve come to this point.
Ready to go back in the car once the Trans Dipstick arrives, Trimmed up the Converter cover to fit with the LS Engine rerouted the battery cables and reinstalled the headers, time to veg.
Can’t believe you get those headers to fit lol
did you make them?
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