This topic contains 52 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by 
-
Posts
-
Looking killer mate.
I would of welded the whole way along the lower control arms.
I like all the braided hose details.
Cheers Cava. It’s easy to get carried away with braid lol.
Are you talking aesthetics or strength with the full weld?
Renno is this engine Stock besides you putting the turbo on it?
The engine is currently 100% stock and will mostly remain that way to begin with. I’ll change out the valve springs and maybe a small cam. But I want to try and get this thing engineered, so that makes things a bit difficult.
On a side note, I found some more pics of the conversion.
Using the CAE starter motor relocation kit meant that there is now a huge hole for debris to get into the bellhousing. Myself and my mate that did the lower control arms designed a cover for this area and laser cut a bunch out of stainless for our cars and anyone that needs one.
I’ll be running some Autometer gauges in the car, so for the oil pressure sensor I used an Aeroflow adapter that goes between the block and the factory oil pressure sensor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For strengthate. I like that cover you got made. How much you selling them for?
For strengthate. I like that cover you got made. How much you selling them for?
I think the stitch will be more than enough to stop the arm from folding in on itself on a hard launch. But I guess time will tell…
The covers are $35.00 posted to your door.
Are they to suit a particular box or any?
I haven’t walked out side to check mine and what thegaps like
On the engine side of things. Stock ls with valve spring can go A LONG way.
The current standard ls1 record got reset on the weekend. 9.06@146
Rear arms like to bend at spring perch…although mainly happens at track with slicks whereas streeters like to unpick top mounts off chassis with spool diffs.
Heard of guys welding rods inside the arms while others put them in lipped part of arm.
Are they to suit a particular box or any? I haven’t walked out side to check mine and what thegaps like
They were based loosely around the CAE starter relocation bracket, which from memory is the same for all transmissions. In saying that, I was a bit particular with mine and trimmed it down a bit more to suit my application. For example one of the tabs on the rear main plate stuck out on my engine, so I had to cut a small recess out for it (as you can see in the pics).
On the engine side of things. Stock ls with valve spring can go A LONG way. The current standard ls1 record got reset on the weekend. 9.06@146
This is one of the reasons why I ended up ditching the old 5L in favor of the LS.
Rear arms like to bend at spring perch…although mainly happens at track with slicks whereas streeters like to unpick top mounts off chassis with spool diffs. Heard of guys welding rods inside the arms while others put them in lipped part of arm.
Funny you mention that, as a bloke I know just posted a pic the other day of some arms he boxed up bending at the spring perch.
NickVR
- Adelaide
- VR V8 Exec, VR SS, VF Redline Reserve
View build HERE
Posts: 264
Looking good mate. Good to see your still progressing with it.
Looking good mate. Good to see your still progressing with it.
Cheers Nick. It’s not the quickest build, but there is always progress being made.
Speaking of which, I bought some CVR -16AN adapter fittings for the CVR electric water pump.
The valley cover got some attention from my mates welder and is now reassembled and back on the engine.
Next item on the list was to modify the factory coolant ‘steam’ crossover pipe to allow the -6AN fitting for the valley cover PCV to fit.
I’ve now decided to take a different direction with the coolant ‘steam’ crossover. So I’ve ordered some fittings and will get stuck into that when they arrive.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve got some an adapters for the steam ports for sale.
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777The covers are $35.00 posted to your door.
Given mine is out and I have a chance to tidy some things up, I might take one of those off you mate!! Will send you a PM.
I’ve got some an adapters for the steam ports for sale.
Cheers Cava, but I’ve already sourced some spare ones from a mate of mine.
Given mine is out and I have a chance to tidy some things up, I might take one of those off you mate!! Will send you a PM.
No probs Gary.
No probs fellas.
Gary txt me.
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Renno, done and paid
I’ve been looking into a few different options in regards to wrapping the wiring loom. I did a small test run with some heat resistant wiring braid on the knock sensor harness and I am pretty happy with the outcome. So the entire wiring loom will be done in a braid wrap. You’ll also see in the pics that I shortened the loom so the connector plug sticks out just past the back of the inlet manifold.
I also managed to find some photos of the standard LS1 sump that I modified to clear the 5L k-frame in the VN. I took some measurements and realised that I could get some decent clearance and still retain the standard sump baffle.
Since I was always going to go down the turbo route, I drilled a hole for the -12AN turbo drain fitting.
I then had Corey at SA Weldworx weld it all up for me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some nice work and very nice welds there.
Its hit and miss the clearance. Mine seems to clear with no trimming which was a relief.
Some nice work and very nice welds there.
Its hit and miss the clearance. Mine seems to clear with no trimming which was a relief.
Cheers Cava.
It’s funny just how much variation in clearance there actually is between all the different VN-VS LS swaps. Truth be told mine only needed a mm or two in the corners, but I took out a little bit more so I could set the motor further back if need be.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I’m hearing you. How you plan on setting it back further. My mounts allowed no back and forward adjustment
Yeah I’m hearing you. How you plan on setting it back further. My mounts allowed no back and forward adjustment
The Tuff Mounts that I am using do have a little bit of wiggle room and I’ve set the motor as far back on them as I can. If I did want to go further towards the firewall I’d have to slot the holes in the mounts.
A little bit more progress on the ol’ girl:
I was playing around with a few different ideas on how to tackle the coolant steam crossover on the front of the heads. One thing that I didn’t want was to have to run it to a port on the radiator. Luckily, the CVR electric water pump has a provision on either side of the body from the machining process. These have odd sized blanking plugs in them and I managed to get CVR to send me some spares to experiment with.
So I got my mate to weld on some -4AN male fittings to the spare plugs. However, the plugs are quite thin, so the edges needed to be cleaned up on the lathe after welding.
I then bought some fittings and a few tube benders and came up with these.
I also picked up an Astra electric power steering pump, so that is next on the cards.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
