HomeForumsTechnical – GeneralSuspensionModified IRS K-frame for Lowered Cars

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  • #11646
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    Jaba
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    Member since: February 18, 2015
    Posts: 103

    You could run them with a standard spring / shock mate, a lot of effort though.

     

    I run camber adjustable control arm bushes in my setup, that do exactly the same thing, just not as much adjustment.

     

    My VZ just tucks tyre at the rear with no / neutral camber using these bushes.

     

    http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W62927&sq=4789

    #11648
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    Brad
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    Member since: November 9, 2015
    Posts: 14

    So these cradle extension boxes are they purely for running coilovers/tubed control arms or could u weld them in and have the rest stock just lowered to help with camber?

    The boxes (first and second pic) can be run on standard rear end.

    I used to run the adjustable bushes on the toe and camber (super pro), I couldn’t get the adjustment that I needed to not scrub tyres, I am still running the adjustable bush on the camber side with the additional hole and if I want I can give it positive camber, the adjustment now is much better.

    My ute is on 235/40/18 and measures 630mm from centre of guard lip to floor, so it’s low but not dragging its arse lol.

    I tube the toe side as I will be tubbing to the chassis rail over Xmas, that way I can still be low and use the 28×9 full slick without worrying about scrubbing, plus the rod end gives more adjustment/feel to the rear.

    #11649
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    dazedv3
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    Member since: March 8, 2015
    Posts: 31

    Yeah i’ve got a VP Calais (IRS) running the Superpro 4 point Adjustable bushes inner and outer but it still seems to run a noticeable bit of negative camber so was interested in how effective the weld in boxes are or if they’ll even suit the VP.

    #11652
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    Brad
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    Member since: November 9, 2015
    Posts: 14

    Yeah i’ve got a VP Calais (IRS) running the Superpro 4 point Adjustable bushes inner and outer but it still seems to run a noticeable bit of negative camber so was interested in how effective the weld in boxes are or if they’ll even suit the VP.

    They will suit as the subframe is basically the same, Its not an easy job to work out the plates as the mount is angled/slanted slightly and welding the boxes on can be tight even with a flex head tig torch.

    #12267
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    [TUFFVQ]
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 171

    OK So I plan on finally sorting this out over the Christmas/New Year break. Will post pics in my thread and here for future reference.

    #12274
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Great, def interested in how it goes.

    #17869
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    CRZYVY
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    Member since: July 25, 2015
    Posts: 16

    Hey, any updates on this?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #18566
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    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    He detailed it all in his build thread, its turned out bloody awesome, here is the link in case anyone is interested in how it turned out.

    http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/atlas-grey-vq-statesman-304/page/3/  (Page 3)

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #18569
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    Admin
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    Member since: February 4, 2015
    Posts: 32
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    Re-posted courtesy, and thanks to TUFFVQ

    Finally did something.

    Ignore the spatter. I was out of MIG gas and had to weld gasless. :(

    Not finished that one. Also still need the trianguler pieces and to finish the welding (I had a really small amount of 1/8″ plate so I couldn’t cut complex shapes without wastage).

    Also I’m basically out of gas for the TIG now too…..

     

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Admin Admin.
    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Admin Admin.
    #18570
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    Admin
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    Member since: February 4, 2015
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    Re-posted courtesy, and thanks to TUFFVQ

    Some progress is better than none.

    I really underestimated the time taken to get these mounting points right. You really wouldn’t think it would be that hard but it is very fiddly. I’m no fabricator/tradesman but I’m not a nuff either, so I’m surprised that it’s taken this long. But maybe an hour or two more and they’ll be done. Not pretty but done.

    Also modified one of the control arms to give extra tyre clearance should I ever fit wider tyres. Not a lot of work but easier to do now that it’s out.

    Summit order arrived also, haven’t checked to see if the Flowmasters will fit yet….  :scratch:

    Modified.

    Unmodified.

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Admin Admin.
    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Admin Admin.
    #18575
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    Admin
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    Re-posted courtesy, and thanks to TUFFVQ

    Took the car for a run last night. After having the spool in the car for about 7-8 years, driving without one was quite a change. No longer the tight feeling going through round abouts or tight turns (who would’ve thought?).

    Centre seems to work just fine, as soon as power is put through it the behaviour is just as before, quite linear. There doesn’t seem to be much of any axle tramp and traction is improved with the better contact patch.

    No additional noise with the new diff mount which I didn’t expect.

    Definitely need to get some new tyres as (apart from being worn out) the old Adrenalines are certainly past their prime in terms of rubber hardness.

    #18576
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    Admin
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    Re-posted courtesy, and thanks to TUFFVQ

    All back together. Eyeball alignment resulted in this. Victory.

    #18579
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    So I am thinking of doing this to mine, not going to coil overs, just wanting to reposition the trailing arm mount to correct the negative camber.  I like G Force gear and I think with my fab skills buying the box pre made will make things a lot easier.  So my question is this please if anyone can help;

    Is a VT-Z rear cradle the same around the inboard trailing arm as a VR?

    I am not worried about them being different generally, I know they are, but is the trailing arm area the same?

    Anyone got the two in the shed they can compare side by side?

    #18580
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    Jaba
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    Member since: February 18, 2015
    Posts: 103

    Hey Gary, i have a VZ cradle at home and VS control arms which bolt together perfectly, both cradles are almost identical in shape, the VS is just a little narrower.  :-)

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Jaba Jaba.
    #18582
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    That my friend is exactly the info I needed.  Cheers :good:

    #18584
    Profile photo of [TUFFVQ]
    [TUFFVQ]
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 171

    Be aware that with mine, to assist in getting the geometry right, I basically used new metal over the top of cut down existing metal to make a doubler plate. This also helps with the tearing of the mounting holes (which you’ve experienced also). However it means that the splined camber bolts are just barely long enough to engage the nut the full thread width. It’s not ideal but now part of my maintenance inspection.

    #18585
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    Brad
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    Member since: November 9, 2015
    Posts: 14

    Be aware that with mine, to assist in getting the geometry right, I basically used new metal over the top of cut down existing metal to make a doubler plate. This also helps with the tearing of the mounting holes (which you’ve experienced also). However it means that the splined camber bolts are just barely long enough to engage the nut the full thread width. It’s not ideal but now part of my maintenance inspection.

    Nice work, good to see someone else that’s had a go, Its been about 4000km since I done mine and it’s easily the best thing you can do to the IRS, for grip and tyre wear. Haven’t gone back to the strip yet though.

    Im using superpro bushes which have the 2 bolts and locknuts and I still have plenty of thread to lock up, they don’t come loose but I check them as maintenance.

    #18586
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    Immortality
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    Member since: August 31, 2015
    Posts: 535

    Hey Gary, i have a VZ cradle at home and VS control arms which bolt together perfectly, both cradles are almost identical in shape, the VS is just a little narrower.

     

    Does that mean the later model arms are the same the as the VS?

    I was under the impression that the VZ arms have slightly different angles to help with the suspension geometry through it’s full range of motion.  It would also be a bonus to have the later model hand brake and later model rear brakes as a starting point.

    #18587
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    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    I came here to see what all you pesant IRS blokes are whinging bout

    #18589
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Cang wait to run side by side with you Cav…

     

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