This topic contains 20 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Marc Marc 4 years, 6 months ago.

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  • #16645
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    Hello Everyone.

    Long time lurker, first time poster.

    Here’s some pics of my VN SS I’ve been slowly restoring/modifying over the last few years.

    When I bought it, it didn’t run, the body was straight but the paintwork peeling, various electrics didn’t work, interior was out of a VT for some reason, had a crappy aftermarket steering wheel etc.

    So I’m slowly making it how it came from the factory, but with some mods along the way:

    Engine:

    Standard 304
    New distributor
    New ignition module
    All new sensor harness
    New sensorsNew inlet manifold and throttle body
    Pacemaker extractors
    All hoses etc replaced
    New gear reduction starter
    All battery wiring, alternator and starter wiring replaced
    Gilmer belt drive
    A/C delete
    Electric thermo fan and controller
    VT engine covers
    New engine mounts
    New accelerator cable
    Twin 2.5 inch exhaust dumped at the diff

    Transmission/Diff:

    Standard trans
    Trans pan changed to one with a drain plug
    New trans mount
    Rebuilt diff with True Trac centre and 3.7 gearset
    Aluminum diff cover

    Interior:

    VP SS seats front and rear
    Power windows
    Central locking
    Chrome door handles
    Re-trimmed hood-lining and parcel shelf
    New door seals
    New bailey channel rubbers
    VR boot trim pieces
    New seat belts

    Body:

    Genuine VN SS kit (except for front bar)
    Powder coated VS door handles
    New bonnet
    All new door and boot locks
    Replacement Hella front spotlights (had to modify them and the front bar somewhat to make them fit – still have the genuine ones)
    New headlights and indicators
    New taillights and tail light harness
    Chrome door strikers
    Chrome bonnet lock
    Fuel tank cleaned and swirl pot hose replace
    Fuel tank breather hoses replaced
    Chrome quarter guard bolts

    Suspension:

    All bushes replaced with Super Pro bushes
    Koni shocks front and rear
    New strut towers
    New Kings springs
    Adjustable panhard bar
    Strut brace
    Adjustable strut tops
    New radius rods

    Wheels/Brakes:

    Genuine HSV Senator Signature wheels
    Wilwood calipers front and rear
    Drilled and slotted rotors
    New handbrake cable
    VT master cylinder
    VS booster

    Pics:

    I don’t have many pics of how it was when I got it unfortunately.

    Starting to strip it for paint:

    Once I got it back from the panel shop and started fitting everything:

    And as it sits when I’m not messing with it:

    Still a work in progress obviously. Need to fit the decal kit, replace the ignition barrel, finish putting the rest of the interior back together, adjust the handbrake cable and give it a really good clean.

    I’d like to replace the steering wheel with a Momo one. Any ideas if they are legal, and a good place to get one from?

    Thanks for looking.

    • This topic was modified 8 years, 7 months ago by Profile photo of Marc Marc.
    • This topic was modified 8 years, 7 months ago by Profile photo of Marc Marc.
    #16654
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    So nice to see these cars being brought back from the edge like that, great work!!  Did you do the Wilwoods?  I have them on mine, awesome brakes, are they the set designed for the GTO?  Great project mate, thanks for posting.

    #16659
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    So nice to see these cars being brought back from the edge like that, great work!! Did you do the Wilwoods? I have them on mine, awesome brakes, are they the set designed for the GTO? Great project mate, thanks for posting.

    Yeah, it is nice to see them restored instead of being neglected like this one was when I got it. I’m still finding dodgy work  done by previous owners!

    I fitted up the Wilwoods, but I dont know a great deal about them  as I bought them second-hand from a guy who had previously fitted them to a VN (it was that candy-apple red VN with a turbocharged and supercharged RB30 on Just Commodores)

    A majority of the work has been done by me, except for the painting. It helps being a diesel mechanic by trade with all my tools at home!

    #16660
    Profile photo of HDN05L
    HDN05L
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 289
    Supporter

    As far as the momo steering wheel goes, if your car didnt come out with an air bag you can fit an after market wheel. It must have a horn pad to protect you incase you have an accident.

    I found mine from gum tree $90 in awesome condition.

     

    #16661
    Profile photo of HDN05L
    HDN05L
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 289
    Supporter

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    #30507
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    So… still a lurker, not much of a poster. The VN is now for the most part complete:

    However, an LS conversion is now in the parts acquisition stage. I’ve managed to get hold of a low kilometre LS1 and 4l60E transmission combo which is waiting at a mates workshop. I’ll source all the parts, remove the old engine and transmission and send the car to him for the rest.

    I’ve read the guide on this forum for LS conversions, but have a few questions:

    Im looking at the Muscle Garage kit – Tuff Mounts, starter conversion, Pacemaker headers etc. Its a bit more expensive than the CRS kit, with the main difference being the headers and engine mounts. As I’m not expecting to be chasing huge horsepower (so not concerned about the headers) , is the Muscle Garage kit the better option?

    Is the high mount alternator kit necessary? I’ve seen some pictures of cars with them and some without. I’m not intending to run any forced induction so is there any requirement to move the alternator up? Or is it usually something that is determined on a case-by-case basis?

    Thanks for any responses to my questions, much appreciated.

    #30508
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Hi mate.  imo the Tuff mounts full kit is the way to go.  Pacemaker headers are far and away the best for clearance and make good numbers anyway.  The Tuff mount kit just works as all of it is designed to work together and Jason the owner of Muscle Garage/Tuff Mounts is very easy to deal with and helpful if you strike a problem.

    I am not running the high mount alternator, mine is just an aftermarket Aeroflow alternator mount in the regular spot which maybe got it a little closer to the block.  It’s close to the rail but my engineer had no issue.  the engine torques over the other way anyway.

    Don’t hesitate to ask any questions, lots of us on here have either done it or are doing it.

    Hope that helps.

     

    #30512
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    Thanks very much for the response VRSenator. I’ll look to order the Muscle Garage Kit shortly.

    I noticed on your build you used a swivel thermostat housing (I’m sure it was yours..I’ve been looking over a few builds). As i intend to use the standard VN radiator (just fitted a new one due to multiple leaks), would a swivel housing be necessary? I’m assuming it will give more hose choices?

    #30513
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Yea I just used the swivel housing as it meant on mine I could use a standard 90-degree elbow piece of hose.  Rad hoses seem a little all over the place, I think as there are so many combinations of radiators etc.  Guys like Cav and Heron etc are doing theirs now, so they might be better to ask as their info is more current.

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #30515
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Muscle car garage kit ftw. Use a late model alternator. High mount is yuk.

    #30518
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated.

    Any thoughts on fuel pressure regulators? I read through Heron’s build last night and see he went for the Corvette filter (as did you VRSenator i think?) over a standalone regulator.

    Any reason why you guys went that way instead of a standalone? I’m considering getting some adapters so I can mount a gauge directly into the fuel rail, and putting the Corvette filter down near the tank.

    I assume the Corvette filters are reliable enough and dont need changing regularly? I dont intend the car to be a daily so I cant see any requirement to change out the filter on a regular basis.

    Thanks again for the help.

    #30519
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    I used one cause i wanted to keep everything as simple and close to factory as possible. My reg is mounted right in front of the tank so I only have a short supply and return line from the tank to the reg, then a single 3/8 line to the rail. Unless you’re running big power or turbo/blower, the factory style fuel setup is fine/ The regs are relatively cheap and readily available in case of a faulty one or to replace them periodically. Not much point of a fuel pressure gauge on a stock engine either really. The regs are set to the correct pressure, your tuner will know if there is a fuel pressure issue during tuning. Less parts mean less potential issues or time spent troubleshooting. Your budget will also determine what way to go, you can spend at least double to do the whole engine bay mounted reg, feed and return line, pressure gauge etc.

    #30524
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    Cheers Heron, thanks for the response. I like your way of thinking, I’ll add the Corvette filter to the (ever growing) parts list.

    Nice car by the way, I enjoyed reading through your build last night.

    #30525
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Corvette is ALOT easier. Will be plenty good for your setup.

    Remove the sherader valve on the rail and get the adapter to mount it there.

    #30530
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Cheers Heron, thanks for the response. I like your way of thinking, I’ll add the Corvette filter to the (ever growing) parts list. Nice car by the way, I enjoyed reading through your build last night.

    Cheers mate, I’ve learned heaps from asking questions on here so don’t be afraid to ask

    #30541
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Yea, dead head fuel system at normal power levels is fine.  Go big HP and a return system imo is the only way to go.  I have a separate fuel pressure reg up in the bay on the passenger firewall as its best to have it close to the fuel rails for decent power.  Opinions of fuel systems vary a lot, just depends a bit on preference, lots of ways to skin the cat.  I personally don’t like in-boot fuel systems for example, others do.  I actually have a fuel pressure gauge in the car, I like it, its piece of mind knowing you have full fuel pressure, but again that’s personal preference.  Lots to learn with these set ups, best part about this forum is we are all open to share what we have learned :good:

    #32350
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    So a bits changed since my last post on here. Ls conversion is now complete. Also sold off the old wheels and fitted some new ones, rear suspension was lowered and guards rolled, and a Haltech dash installed.

    Some pics:

    New carpet is on the way, and my constant scouring of Ebay and Gumtree scored me a Momo steering wheel and some decent (but used) VY SS allow pedals. I’ve managed to source some NOS VN SS seat material and just scored a set of VS Calais front and rear seats that I’ll get retrimmed once the world stops being crazy.

    #32352
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Wow, nice. How does it drive?

    #32354
    Profile photo of Marc
    Marc
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2016
    Posts: 15

    Cheers. It drives pretty well. A bit firm on the bigger rims/suspension now, but only really noticeable on shitty roads. It goes pretty well too, much better than the standard 5 litre. I’m happy with it so far!

    #32359
    Profile photo of Vsl98
    Vsl98
    Participant
    Member since: September 10, 2018
    Posts: 63

    Where did you get the billet rockers covers from and whats the quality of them like

    Vsl98

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