Home›Forums›Technical – General›Exhaust›Making some kick ass pipes for 2nd gen commodore
This topic contains 147 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by VRSenator065 9 years, 3 months ago.
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June 11, 2015 at 8:27 pm #7606
Are yours only come in and out with engine.
I was looking at pic of yours thinking how on earth do they come in and out in 1 piece
but really once there in who pulls them out, the main thing is the steering rack and starter can come out with them in and it’s all sweet
I carnt put myn in with engine and frame any more, I had the pacemakers fitted last time I dropped and refitted engine and it’s makes life easy pulling motor box out underneath with them fitted
June 11, 2015 at 9:02 pm #7607Yeah mine you have to drop the lot out the bottom and as you say how often do you need to pull headers, usually if you do there’s something else broken so the lot needs to come out anyway, I can get the whole powertrain out of the Tonner in a bit over 2 hours and it has a lot more attached than the Lex both being AWD so no biggie.
June 13, 2015 at 8:13 pm #7624Wait what the!!
You have a tonner that’s all wheel drive ??
What model ??
June 13, 2015 at 10:28 pm #7625VZ, the one in my avatar.
June 14, 2015 at 5:04 pm #7631Arrr I didn’t know that was AWD as well
good on you, that must be a effort to convert that
June 14, 2015 at 5:52 pm #7633Arrr I didn’t know that was AWD as well good on you, that must be a effort to convert that
Was AWD stock
June 15, 2015 at 1:44 pm #7640Is it one of them cross 6 utes or something is it ??
June 15, 2015 at 6:24 pm #7643Is it one of them cross 6 utes or something is it ??
Yeah it was, I converted it to V8 after I got it then did the Blown Stroker thing before deciding it wasn’t such a hot idea for a DD so I pulled the drivetrain and used it in the Lexcen, I then built another driveline using a 5.7L
July 19, 2015 at 7:22 pm #8018So for the last post from me about the pipes is the finished results
pipes are coated in ceracoat HPC both inside and out and is ratted to 1200C
they are very simple in install but only because I know the order in witch they go in
July 20, 2015 at 10:34 pm #8034Nice work mate
u gonna run those senders in the headers
July 22, 2015 at 8:14 pm #8050Senders in the headers ??
The 1/8 npt are for EGT
i only have 1 EGT sensor at the moment but I just put 1 in every cyilendar for the hell of it, 7 just get blocked off, I have it in cyilendar 4 at the moment
when I get second part of wide band comes a second EGT so will have one in each side
July 23, 2015 at 10:01 am #8051
pir4teParticipant- Mallala
- 640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon
View build HERE
Posts: 154Of course someone gave you a good reason as to why to coat all the headers. However in the ideal case you would not coat the inside of your turbo 2″ longer-than-normal setup. Outside definitely, as the main purpose is to increase the velocity by keeping EGT as high as possible through to end of primaries.
Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.
July 26, 2015 at 7:41 pm #8088That is a good point there pirate
I didn’t give it to much thought on that princable
I’m just trying to keep under bonnet temps down as much as possible so that was the only reason I went with both inside and out
August 19, 2015 at 12:14 pm #8521
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Farkin hell mate, awesome work
August 19, 2015 at 8:16 pm #8540Cheers Gary, and also I would like to thank everyone who has put in ideas and help, pirate that info on lengths, pipe sizes you posted way back on page 2 or so was absolutely awesome and thank you for that valuable info
thanks to all that posted pics and ideas of others pipes for ideas to work off as well
August 20, 2015 at 9:34 am #8551Curious does it sound much different and can you notice any gains?
August 20, 2015 at 10:28 am #8556
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777^ trouble is this beast is making north of 800hp, how do you notice the difference between say 800 or 850hp except on a dyno or drag strip…
August 20, 2015 at 12:56 pm #8567
Dan811Participant- SE Melbourne
- 02 Monaro M6 LS1
View build HERE
Posts: 124^ trouble is this beast is making north of 800hp, how do you notice the difference between say 800 or 850hp except on a dyno or drag strip…
THIS^^^
800 or 850 doesn’t really matter, putting it down to the ground is still going to be a struggle.
But then again, you only have enough horsepower if you’re scared to use it all
August 23, 2015 at 6:00 pm #8682Got it fired up last weekend and this weekend, It’s running a new harness and PCM now so it’s only got a base tune we made up to start it and make sure I don’t have any problems before we start road tuning next weekend
honestly I think it’s a bit quiter at idle then the old pacemaker 5002
sound wise I Can not really tell any difference
do t think I will notice any difference because last time I drove this I eased the power on at 90km/h in 3rd and by the time I got to about 85% throttle and 5000rpm it just lost all traction and left 2 black marks on the road
now im on e85 and about to turn on the water with injection I don’t think it’s goin to get any better
September 13, 2015 at 8:48 pm #9179Ok well thought I should post my results
all I have changed is pipes and converted to e85
Sound wise compared to pacemakers 5002 goin straight to twin 3 inch system and now using these pipes to the tapered collector and the 3.5 inch cats and 3.5 pipes to rear of gear box where it connects to my twin 3 inch system
It is quiter, noticbly quiter on light throttle and idle, 2000-3000 rpm with bit of throttle sounds much better, use to have a drowning sound and now is much nicer v8 rumble sound
Low torque – all that said I would loose low torque are severely wrong, I have picked up a whopping 200rwnm below 3000rpm
Mid to top end I can not confirm yet as I only have 11.5 degrees timing at top end for now till I clock a few more km on my new engine and we crank the timing up a bit but at that I still have trouble keeping it tied to dyno making 400rwkw at 5900rpm @11psi and then spinning hard and smoking the tyres on dyno and the power line just goes flat and boost continues climbing till where power should fall over at 6800rpm
The biggest difference of all
My boost
before at 6800rpm I had 18 psi
now at 6800rpm I have between 13-14 psi
That goes to show how much the pacemakers really where choking it up, I thought they would of been choking it and this is hard proof they where and this is also hard proof the pipes are working well
Thanks all that helped me out through there build
- This reply was modified 9 years, 3 months ago by vs manta 218.
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