Home›Forums›Technical – General›Exhaust›Making some kick ass pipes for 2nd gen commodore
This topic contains 147 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by VRSenator065 9 years, 2 months ago.
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May 31, 2015 at 3:04 pm #7370
Mine is Pwr Steer, there’s room ;)
June 1, 2015 at 12:28 am #7383
pir4teParticipant- Mallala
- 640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon
View build HERE
Posts: 154And also the pipes are cyilendar 1, 3 and 7 are 42 inches long and cyilendar 5 is 40 inches close enough I suppose
Is that total length including collector?
What is the average length of primaries (before collector merge)?
Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.
June 1, 2015 at 5:01 am #7384That’s to the start of the collector
then after that the collector is something like 10 inches maybe a tad more
June 1, 2015 at 8:16 am #7385
pir4teParticipant- Mallala
- 640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon
View build HERE
Posts: 154Where did you get the calculation for total length? 40″ seems way too long vs 23″ ideal.
Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.
June 1, 2015 at 8:42 am #7386Thats just how long i had to make them to get to where i can fit the collector
23 inches is above the steering rack
June 1, 2015 at 11:04 am #7389
pir4teParticipant- Mallala
- 640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon
View build HERE
Posts: 154OK, I appreciate you’ve spent a lot of time making the long pipes for one side but one last thing, would this design fit?
Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.
June 1, 2015 at 12:46 pm #7394I used a calculator I found online, came up as 35″ but mine are a bit longer, I asked Darren Difillipo about it and he said it’s better to err on the long side.
June 1, 2015 at 1:49 pm #7396The pipes above wont fit past my starter motor
And no way in the world would i fit something like that on drivers side
On passenger side all 4 pipes are above one another to get past starter motor and by there no.2 cyilender would be about 25 inches at a guess
Its just so tight in a VS and has to be after the steering rack for the collector to fit in a 4 into 1 design and these size pipes doesnt help much
June 1, 2015 at 6:57 pm #7398Does it honestly really matter if they are longer here or shorter there? Not like your chasing every .01
Seat of the pants it’s not gunna be any different.
I can appreciate the work involved and considering this set isn’t very costly $$$. But it is worth the time for the gain you will have?
- This reply was modified 9 years, 5 months ago by cava454.
June 1, 2015 at 7:22 pm #7400Exactly cava, It doesn’t bother me if they are little longer shorter straighter or more curved Or it doesnt exactly match what a computer program says
but the info pirate put up on page 2 is absolutely awesome and thanks heaps as that did settle my decision on 1 7/8 for 8 inches and 2 inch rest of way as I was just taking a complete guess
I have no idea what the gains will be or weather it’s worth it, I’m betting only a hand full will say it is and most will say fuck that your mad taking on that job and the rest will just be completely confused at what I’m doin and why
if they made 1 7/8 pipes I would have just got them and been happy but in my oppion 1 3-4 is a little on the girls side even though people have made over 1000hp using them
i just think this will make the power more efficiently and work better for the combo I have
June 1, 2015 at 7:51 pm #7403I ran 1.3/4 on the big engine when it was in the Tonner and always felt that it held it back a bit, that’s why I bumped it up to 1.7/8 for the new build, got any pics of how you did the transitions?
June 1, 2015 at 9:15 pm #7405Nar I haven’t at the moment
I just centred it up and welded them together
June 1, 2015 at 9:53 pm #7410Could be a benefit doing it that way, they’ll act as reversion dams.
June 2, 2015 at 8:15 pm #7425I never heard of them, did a little reasherce a might help as I do have a big cam
when you line the pipes up its so close and is only like a 1mm step around the pipe so I didn’t worrie about making any cones of any sort
I have read that doin a step like I have and not a cone helps with scavenging but honestly it’s such a small amount that would change from this and with the power and torque I’m making I’ll never notice anyway
June 2, 2015 at 9:21 pm #7426Reversion Dams do actually work, used to do it with my old Turbo I-6’s to good effect.
June 3, 2015 at 5:06 am #7429
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777I’m with Cava. You are talking FI and a road car. Those calculations will work at a given rpm and a given load. How often will your car sit at that?
June 3, 2015 at 9:52 am #7435The pipes I put up pics of are for its355 done by mkal in croydon…. They do nice work but charge like insane
June 3, 2015 at 12:40 pm #7439I’m with Cava. You are talking FI and a road car. Those calculations will work at a given rpm and a given load. How often will your car sit at that?
Yep posted this on page #4, I doubt there’s a chassis dyno accurate enough to measure a difference..
June 3, 2015 at 6:19 pm #7447Yeah the difference between little lengths and changes in 1st step length and stuff is all to fine a detail for me to be worried about, look at pacemaker pipes, cyilendar 1 is twice as long as cyilendar 7 to the first Y and that carnt be good
iv got the tapered collector witch in my books was a must but the rest is just what it is
looking at the pipes iv made and the pacemakers 5002 witch is the best pacemaker make for a VN-VS 5l is massive, you can easily see how much better myn will flow and I think that will make a measurable difference especially because I’m blower as well
if if they mad 1 7/8 pipes for my car I would of just brought them in the first place and I would not be doin this now and also if I had to pay someone to do this there is no way in the world I would do that either
because it’s cheap for me is the only reason I’m Doin this other wise it would simply cost to much
I carnt see some one making a set of these for any less then $3000
June 3, 2015 at 6:38 pm #7448So the Difillipo Venturi collectors?
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