Home›Forums›Technical – General›Engine Conversions & Engineering›LS1 Info and general help
This topic contains 146 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by VRSenator065 3 years, 7 months ago.
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November 21, 2020 at 8:23 pm #33189
exec24Participant- 2004 VY S2 Berlina 1996 VS 5L Sedan
View build HERE
Posts: 435Could anyone tell me what they did regarding the LS1 front steam pipes. I’m not looking to block them completely, but more so asking the question if i need to run the factory setup which is via the throttle body?
if i understand the factory setup properly, it is used for vehicles in cold climates to keep the throttle from freezing up
Can i bypass the throttle body hoses and just run the steam pipe from the front of the drivers side head to the front of the passenger side head, and just block off the throttle body hose that does to the radiator or does it still need to be kept?
November 22, 2020 at 5:09 am #33191You can bypass the throttle body, though best to keep the rad line intact.
November 22, 2020 at 8:33 am #33193
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Yep as Mick says, but also if I did mine again I would plumb it into the water pump. That way it’s one less visible line. If you google it there’s info, seems pretty easy to do.
February 12, 2021 at 2:36 pm #33444
exec24Participant- 2004 VY S2 Berlina 1996 VS 5L Sedan
View build HERE
Posts: 435Ok so I’ve almost got this conversion completed. The engine and transmission are all in the car everything is back together . the car cranks, continuously if i hold the ignition on but it won’t fire. So I need a bit of help
I’ve scanned the car with my Tech 2 clone and it has no faults showing on anything including the PCM, PIM or BCM
I have checked the injector wiring plugs with a test light and cranked it over and they all light up
the fuel pump I had in it until last night was brand new. It would prime, no problem. It was a aftermarket one with a Walbro pump. But I swapped it over just incase it I been sold a bad one. Currently one is a second hand one.
I’ve started checking coils and leads, cylinders 1, 3 and 5 so far have spark. I’ll check the rest tonight. While it’s cranking how often should the coil I’m checking spark. I’m use to the 5lt, with a quick and constant spark while cranking. Because it’s 1 coil firing all cylinders. But the LS seems to have a bit of a pause. Is this because each cylinder has its own coil?
What pressure does the low oil pressure switch cut in at? To not let the engine start?
what oil pressure should it be at while cranking?
And what fuel pressure should it be at?
my next thing is to check the injectors are working properly, is there a way of doing this?
February 12, 2021 at 10:15 pm #33445Hi,
Sounds like you checking all the right stuff. Spark, fuel. Fuel pressure should be around 40 psi. You could pull some plugs out and check if they are wet with fuel or lift the fuel rail and injectors up and crank the engine and visually check spray. Do you have fuel and spark with the ignition in the run position as well as crank position? Steam pipe you will need to run to the top of the radiator for best bleeding off of air in the cooling system.
February 14, 2021 at 8:20 am #33450
exec24Participant- 2004 VY S2 Berlina 1996 VS 5L Sedan
View build HERE
Posts: 435Ok bit of an update.
so as mentioned all the injector plugs on the loom are pulsing, I had one off at a time and they were lighting up while cranking. I had checked spark on all the spark plugs, made sure the leads are all on. They looked a little carboned but not wet. And having replaced the pump with a spare I decided to make a small loom with a single injector plug and check the injectors were actually working. Only really heard one of the 8 click on. Tested this same harness on the Ecotec I had removed from this car and the few I tried it on clicked on/off. Also tried it on another LS1 I have complete in the shed (ready for another car) each injector clicked on/off. so I decided to just swap the rail over with the spare. Once I done this I cranked it over and at first. Nothing had changed. But then it fired and stalled. Then done it again and it started straight up.
very happy with the outcome
April 1, 2021 at 9:50 am #33556
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777First time been on the forum for a while, great work mate, bet you were happy when she fired up!!
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