This topic contains 146 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by 
VRSenator065 3 years, 8 months ago.
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every ls i have had needs a rear main and sump gasket basically as standard .
Don’t quote me. But I don’t believe so. I had mine apart a few times over the years and always re used them.
There is a tool to buy when you do the rear main is its aligned perfectly. If you just wing it, it can still leak.
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This reply was modified 8 years ago by
cava454.
May just have been a split PVC hose where the two merge at the rear of the heads, quite common.
or have seen leaking oil pressure switch as well.
ok i’ll keep in mind, i’ve put the engine in a corner of the shed for the time being
if i end up fitting it into the VY i’ll more than likely change the gaskets people have mentioned, and the PCV hose, as the one on the diver side is cracked
another few questions
what kind of extractors would be best suited to a stock or mild cammed LS1,
i have read on alot of forums regarding Try-Y’s and 4 into 1’s an there is alot of mixed views
i have spotted a few sets secondhand that i think are reasonably priced, $300-350 lately but just not sure on what to look out for
currently found a pair of advance headers for $300, but have found a few sets of pacemaker 4 into 1’s for $300-350
my whole intention for this engine will be to fix the oil leaks and fit a cam at the same time, i dont want to do any work to the block like rebuilding it, but also dont know what would be suggested for headwork for the 241 heads, which cam’s (part numbers and brands) and associated parts people would suggest i need
the car i intend to fit this to is my VY which is street driven daily, and will have an Auto transmission
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777
Pacemaker tri Y’s for easy of fitment and clearance hands down no contest. On mine I still made 508rwhp with them, its not as though they completely choke it. Both 4 into 1’s sit quite low under the car, they are more difficult to fit, have less clearance to the chassis and around the steering, but do ultimately allow more power.
Pacemakers in a heart beat. They fit like a glove compared to any other shitty brand.
Pacemaker tri Y’s for easy of fitment and clearance hands down no contest. On mine I still made 508rwhp with them, its not as though they completely choke it. Both 4 into 1’s sit quite low under the car, they are more difficult to fit, have less clearance to the chassis and around the steering, but do ultimately allow more power.
Pacemakers in a heart beat. They fit like a glove compared to any other shitty brand.
i dont intend to do any more than a cam, so Tri Y’s are probably more than enough, plus from what ive read they keep some of the down low torque, however my VY is fitted with factory Fe2, and i wont be lowering it so 4 into one are still a possibility if i need
Ive got Pacemaker extractors on my VS, although its a different engine and model ive had trouble with fitment of them in the past…..and there customer service wasn’t great when i called to ask why they didn’t fit
Advance headers are supposedly made by a former employee of Pacemaker, both made here is SA
would you go Tri Y’s cava, or 4 into 1’s
at this stage im leaning towards Tri-ys, if yous are pretty confident that pacemaker are a good fit id go for those
<p style=”text-align: left;”>If I was you. Tri Y.</p>
ok no problem, thanks to yous both
Had di fillipo 4 into 1’s on vy ss m6 daily driver…it was slightly lowered,those extractors scraped on just about everything…did sound off it’s head,way too loud with twin 3″ for a daily but loved it.
Nice set of Tri-y pacies are well up to the task.
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This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by
gtrboyy.
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777For the record on my paccies I cut off the 2.5″ collectors and changed it to 3″
Thought that i just post up that i picked up a set of pacemaker PH 5367 Tri Y’s today, there in pretty decent condition just need to get bolts for them once i work out the length
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Nice work, my experience they def fit the best and give the most clearance.
what are peoples experiences with VCM Cams?
I have narrowed down cam selection the VCM21 or VCM2 (or something equivalent from another manufacturer)
what other parts will be required for a cam upgrade, as a minimum? which brands etc
do i need single or double valve springs? which type of lifter(tiebar?) and even roller rocker?
will the 241 heads require work?
as mentioned above, the intention for this engine will be to fix the oil leaks and fit a cam at the same time, i dont want to do any work to the block like rebuilding it. The car i intend to fit this to is my VY sedan which is street driven daily, and will have an auto transmission and dont really want to run a stall, am looking at either 3.46 or 3.73 diff gear at this stage
I’d had the comp cam 215/223 with great results.
The 219/227 is the next step up which mates have used with awsome results also.
I mentioned these cam earlier….
Would need a PAC beehive spring or a double (mypreference)
wont have to touch heads, can shave slightly to bump the comp if you really want.
No converter needed. Will have plenty of grunt off idle.
Dont need roller rockers but I’d recommend a trunnion upgrade.
stock lifters will do. But if lifting the heads new ls7 will Sufice.
I did look through this thread regarding Cams as I had asked before but couldn’t see anything regarding Cams being posted.
if I was to go 219/227 Comp cam, PAC double springs but no head work.
Do I use Comp Cams for the Trunnion upgrade or another brand?
Do I only need to upgrade to ls7 lifters if I shave the heads. or can I use them from the start?
Can I reuse the original pushrods? Or do I need to get new ones?
Do i need a double row timing chain and do I worry about anything like an under drive pulley?
Any part numbers in particular, for any of the above?
Might go get a price in the next few weeks, bought a rear main tool the other day to align the cover and seal
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This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by
exec24.
Ls7 lifters drop striaght in. Always Measure pushrods to be safe.
I used comp cam trunnions, there are other out there that also work.
Dont need double chain. But I purchased an adjustable rollmaster setup so I could “dial” the cam in correctly.
You can use a UD pulley but it’s not necessarily needed.
Where are you located? I can recommend you a tuner and someone in Melb who could go a step further and spec you a custom cam to suit your needs.
I’m in Adelaide
So im starting to put a list of parts together, do these part numbers sound right?
Comp cams Camshaft 219/227—-Part No#54-456-11
Comp cams Roller Rocker Trunnion Upgrade Kit—Part No#13702-KIT
LS7 Lifters?
Pac Double Valve Springs —-Part no#???
now as for the LS7 lifters do you go aftermarket or factory GM? i did go thought the comp cams catalogue but i didnt see anything mentioned LS7 specifically
and also with the PAC double valve springs which series/type did you use?
Rollmaster Timing Chain Vernier Adjustable Part no# CS1265 is the only adjustable one i can see listed
im still undecided on the UD pulley
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This reply was modified 8 years ago by
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