Home›Forums›Technical – General›Interior & Trim›How I did my door trims
This topic contains 5 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by vs manta 218 8 years, 5 months ago.
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March 16, 2015 at 4:43 pm #2771
So some have asked how I did my door trims and unfortunately these are the only pics I have but I’ll do my best to explain it
So I didn’t really know what I was goin to do or how, I just simply started and went for it and this is what I ended up with
So myn started life similar to this one that I simply googled as I don’t have a pic of myn any more
I then striped it as much as I could, removing it is fearly simple and if you carnt do that then don’t attempt this lol
So after I striped it I removed the insert witch is straight foward and done by bending the little clips on the back and pulling it off, I then riped the material off and scraped the foam off and ended up with a piece of 3mm board
I went down and got some black leather and went to a embroidery place and asked them to do 4 pieces with my desired design and size
Also got some 10mm foam while I got my leather
Couple tins of contact adhesive
Simple sand the board and spray and also spray foam and stick it on and cut excess off with a stainley knife
Then with leather I got it right on the board where I wanted it and layed it down and marked it with a pencil on back side so I knew where I wanted to stick it down, I then transfered the measurments to the other 3 pieces so all had embroidery in same spot
Again spray and stick down, then spray back side and wrap the leather around the board about 20-30mm and cut of the excess
Bit vague description but it’s fearly straight foward
Now the door trims was a bit more work
I tryed to pull the vinyl off and realised it was extremely hard to do so, I then got a stainley knife and run across it every 30-50mm and was able to remove Vinyl in strips and you will be left with a very fuzzy very rough sort of plastic door trim that looks like crap
I then got a speaker mould and screwed it to the door trim and bogged it and sanded and repeated it till I got a good shape
Then with the rear door I didn’t want ash trays so I used some urethane fibre glass and put a few layers on the back
Then bogged it over and again sanded and bogged and repeated till I was happy
Now this takes hours and hours
Sand the whole door trim with any means you can with 80 grit, I used a electric and air orbital sanders, neither worked great but I did get there
I then primed it and sanded each time working my way up in grit level sand paper till I got to 400grit then finally primed and wet sanded with 600 like you would any car panel
Eventually I ended up with this
I was then able to paint it with 2K paint
Now the little strips would of been a mission to remove and mostly likely won’t go back on like factory as you would of slightly wrecked the plastic studs that held them on, once I was finished I used the stud looking things as locators and siliconed them on and taped in place over night then removed tape
They to require the same treatment, sand and sand and sand till your finger tips are gone then continue sanding till you draw blood, by then you are half way and can start the primer and sand and repeat again and again till you get to at least 400grit, then wet sand final with 600 or 800 so it’s ready for 2k paint
The door handle parts are a mission but all require the same treatment
The door looks I sanded and I didn’t prime them as they will bind up when installing
I just dust coated them a few times and 1 did bind on me but I scraped paint off with a stainley knife and tryed again and it worked sweet
The window strip gets the same treatment and it does work as I have done it, 2k paint is flex able and it works fine
After learning these technique I did the rear quarter window both inside and out, I did the out side door trims along the window, the piece Imbetween the doors on the puller and the water strip above the doors
Can see rear quarter window and out side strips have all been painted in this pic of when I was wet rubbing and buffing paint
March 16, 2015 at 4:49 pm #2773March 16, 2015 at 4:52 pm #2774Can see in this pic every piece around the windows on the out side have all coped this treatment and now has a extremely clean look
All painted in jet black gloss 2k paint
Some may say it won’t stick blah blah blah but I’m over 2 years in and every piece is exactly like it was when I painted it and looks 100% better and looks even better then factory in my oppion as it’s not dull, gives a shiny show car look
March 16, 2015 at 4:55 pm #2775Oo and all the screws used on door trims I just cleaned with a nylon brush like a wire wheel thing that is used in a drill and then painted them as well
May 8, 2016 at 11:14 pm #16710
Slow355Participant- Victoria
- hectic spec 355 vs ss ute
View build HERE
Posts: 322Looks good mate, currently doing my door trims, will get my door trims re covered invynal of correct colour as they are vr and my ute interior is i25. Great tips, how did u go painting door handles and vents? Does it chip easily?
munch munch ls1s for lunch
Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8secMay 9, 2016 at 8:43 pm #16719Only chip on paint in my interia is on the drivers door lock as when I painted every thing it jammed up and chipped it trying to get it up again
all vents and inside door handles are perfect and never chipped or peeled at All and the door handles have a had a fer work out all the times Iv worked in car and had to reach from drivers side to passenger to open it due to battery isolator
sanding is the major trick though and lots and lots of wax and Greece remover
and remember I have no ac or even a fan for that matter and if you choose to paint them you must line them up straight as possible and that is where they stay for the rest of there life
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by vs manta 218.
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