HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVB – VC – VH – VK – VLHeron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

This topic contains 905 replies, has 31 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Heron SSV Heron SSV 2 years, 12 months ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 841 through 860 (of 906 total)
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  • #31391
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    You get a lot of those kind of niggles to sort. Especially once you get used to it and start to be able to notice the little things. It’s all part of a big swap imo.

    #31413
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Spot on Gary, every build has things to sort out once it’s on the road. Considering how much of it I did myself and my only knowledge being gained from youtube, google and asking people, I’m amazed it starts first time and drives haha. Even the tuner was impressed when I gave him a rundown of the build.

    Just ordered a few bits and pices for the radiator swap. Got a new VR V6 upper hose and an Aeroflow temp sender adapter, I’ll use that as a join in the top hose to get the length right, and also use the port to run the steam port hose to.

    Anyone know if I should fill my overflow tank? I know I’ll have to bleed the whole system when I swap the radiators over, but do I need to fill the overflow tank as well? Also, does the position of the overflow tank matter, mine is lower than the top of the radiator, not sure if that will cause any issues, factory Commodore ones are usually sitting high in the bay from memory

    #31414
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
    Participant
    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    What you said earlier about the speed senser/speedo throttle issue, the early 304 ecu did need a signal from trans, without it it would cause issues with coming to a stop, idling and take off as you mentioned, not sure about the later LS/ECU if it does the same thing. Your tuner would know for sure about the ecu.

    #31415
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    The tuner said it’s not too much of an issue with the FBW setup. Coming to a stop is fine, and taking off at a normal pace is fine, and even giving it a boot whilst already moving is fine, it only happens occasionally, but on the weekend it happend a few times when I was up it for the rent haha. My scanner is showing a couple of throttle body error codes, I’ll have to get the exact codes and do some digging to see what they mean

    #31416
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Also, does the position of the overflow tank matter, mine is lower than the top of the radiator, not sure if that will cause any issues, factory Commodore ones are usually sitting high in the bay from memory

    Mine is lower, no issues.

    #31429
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Radiator has arrived, had a quick look and the quality looks pretty good for a China special. Bottom pins look like they might actually line up properly, but I’ll reserve my final judgement for the time being. Bottom crossover pipe has also arrived, have to work out how to mount it when I pull mine apart. Will also change the way the intake pipe runs as the top radiator hose wont be in the way this time.

    #31462
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Swapped everything over on the weekend. Pulled the intake and radiator out on Friday evening after work. The new raidator fits perfectly, the side and bottom pins are in the exact factory spots. Bolted the crossover pipe to the bottom of the radiator support, bought new lower hoses as the ones that came with the crossover pipe looked a little iffy. Used a VR V6 top hose, only needed to trim a little off one end for it to fit. Cut the top hose in half to fit an Aeroflow joiner with a temp sender port, using that to run the steam port to. Filled and bled the system, had it idling in the garge for over 20 minutes, it hovered between 92 and 94, the thermo kicks in at 94 and back off at 92, and it stayed there the whole time. Went for a drive yesterday for about 45 minutes, did a bit of freeway driving, previously it would creep up to 110, this time it barely cracked 100, on the backstreets with some stop start it was hovering between 94 and 98. Seems to have worked so far, I’ll see how it goes during the next couple of drives.

    Also fitted a new boot lock.

    Still getting some fault codes and a bit of hesitation when the revs are up. Getting Pedal/Throttle Circuit A Low, Circut B High, Circuit D Low, Circuit E Low.

    #31463
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Good to hear mate. You should put the temp sender in the rear of the drivers side head. It’s more accurate and and closer value to what the ecu reads.

    #31473
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    I’ve been going of the ECU temp, I have my scan tool connected to the OBD port showing the live coolant temp. Dash guage sits in the red when it’s at 100.

    Fault codes are P0122, P0223, P2122, P2127. They all relate to the throttle body and pedal, some research so far suggests it might be a wiring issue as some of the faults relate to the volt levels.

    #31487
    Profile photo of James
    James
    Participant
    Member since: June 14, 2015
    Posts: 8

    Heron, did you happen to have a photo of how you routed your transmission cooler lines as they come out of the TH400?

    I have been re doing alot of work lately and i ended up routing my -6an lines in between two of the primary pipes, and then p clamped on the outside of the chassis rail / behind the drivers wheel area. Its awfully close to the pipes and have used firesleeve on the hose, extractors are ceramic coated though will still probably need an aluminum heat shield of some sort. Cheers

    #31489
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Which hose did you use James?

     

    #31490
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
    Participant
    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Heron, did you happen to have a photo of how you routed your transmission cooler lines as they come out of the TH400? I have been re doing alot of work lately and i ended up routing my -6an lines in between two of the primary pipes, and then p clamped on the outside of the chassis rail / behind the drivers wheel area. Its awfully close to the pipes and have used firesleeve on the hose, extractors are ceramic coated though will still probably need an aluminum heat shield of some sort. Cheers

    Mine are running up out of the trans tunnel and along the top of the drivers side rail. Tried running them under the rail and through the wheel well but it was too close to the headers. I have some sleeve on mine as well. I wanted to hide it to keep the bay clean but at the end of the day mine is a streeter and sometimes you need function over form. There’s heaps going on in the bay with LS engines so two more lines wont make a big difference.

    #31491
    Profile photo of James
    James
    Participant
    Member since: June 14, 2015
    Posts: 8

    aeroflow 100 series stainless braid hose, its what i had laying around so hopefully it holds up. i did think about doing stainless hardline as it exits the TH400 casing to behind the wheel arch and then the 100 series hose.

    #31492
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Sadly it won’t..

    #31493
    Profile photo of James
    James
    Participant
    Member since: June 14, 2015
    Posts: 8

    copy that, cheers guys. ill be re doing that section in hard line  :good:

    #31495
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    200 Fire Sleeved should be fine, not a huge difference in price these days.

    #31501
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    200 Fire Sleeved should be fine, not a huge difference in price these days.

    You don’t think 100 series is up to the task?

    Thats what I used. My old setup used 400series push lock.

    #31502
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Not when it runs between pipes Cav, fire sleeved or not the rubber cooks and breaks down…

    #31511
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Not when it runs between pipes Cav, fire sleeved or not the rubber cooks and breaks down…

    You just killed my vibe.

    #31626
    Profile photo of OLD GMH
    OLD GMH
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 29

    I’ve just read through all 43 pages of this thread – this is one impressive build up and the result speaks for itself. Good to see someone tackling a lot of the work themselves too – the satisfaction of the end result makes it all worth it. I’m keen to see some more pictures of this radiator setup, maybe a link to purchase it too and some part numbers for the hoses… asking for a friend…

     

    P.S. I plan to run braided hose for my T400 trans cooler lines too – as long as I can keep them away from heat.

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