Heron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

[Vsl98Participant Victoriavs ute with l98 and 4l60e View build HERE Member since: September 10, 2018 Posts: 63]

Next to the firewall

Vsl98

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Not sure to be honest, that was on the motor when I got it. Could be a vent or something similar.

[Vsl98Participant Victoriavs ute with l98 and 4l60e View build HERE Member since: September 10, 2018 Posts: 63]

Yeah okay mines got the same thing

Vsl98

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Having second thoughts about my radiator. The one i bought a while back was supposed to be for a VK 6 cylinder. Didnt check how it fits in the car for ages after i bought it cause i wasnt at that stage yet. Eventually worked out that the pins on the bottom and sides were in the wrong spots, and to get it to fit i’d have to get them cut off and welded back on in the right spot. Plus the outlet was a little too close to the radiator support and i’d have to trim a bit out of it to get a hose and clamp on. Now i’m ready to fit it, and i’m not liking how high it sits above the top bit where the bonnet latch is, plus having to modify it to fit, plus being a ebay alloy special. I can get a new standard VK 6 cylinder 3 core copper radiator for $460. Anyone have some comments to add about cooling LS motors in early Commodores?

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Mine, of course, is not first gen but pretty much, simply put, power makes heat, so if you are going to make a lot of power, you are going to need a better radiator to cope with it. Throw that in with a physically smaller engine bay area and potentially slow cruising, or burnouts etc with no air movement the heat issue compounds.  Given all the time and expense you have put into everything else, imo spending a bit extra on a good quality radiator like a PWR or similar is relatively cheap insurance to protect the engine. Just my 2c worth.

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Mine, of course, is not first gen but pretty much, simply put, power makes heat, so if you are going to make a lot of power, you are going to need a better radiator to cope with it. Throw that in with a physically smaller engine bay area and potentially slow cruising, or burnouts etc with no air movement the heat issue compounds. Given all the time and expense you have put into everything else, imo spending a bit extra on a good quality radiator like a PWR or similar is relatively cheap insurance to protect the engine. Just my 2c worth.

I second that , it is what some people do spend on big motor power etc but for get about small things cooling brakes, diff drive shaft axles things that will break or not work  ,,,,2c,,,,

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ve seen guys running $1000 plus big name radiators and still having issues with overheating, and I’ve seen guys running standard ones without issues. I know every car is different and there are a million variables, but the budget doesnt stretch to a custom one at the moment. South Coast Radiators do some quality work and can supply a great one, but it’s up around $1700. They use copper/brass instead of alloy, which is why I was looking at a factory one as it made of the same stuff. And i know it will fit. Plus I’ve sold a couple of bits and pieces that i dont need and wont need to add too much cash to get it.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

It’s always tough when you are trying to keep on a budget, to work what to spend money on and what not too, so I do understand.  But having been down the path before of not having a cooling system up to the task, and sitting on the side of the road with overheating issues, I can say it is a total pia.  My radiator was custom from PWR and was around $1,500.  But at least with a rad its a pretty simple thing to change.  Just make sure you have a good quality and accurate temp gauge and see how it goes, but my guess is you will end up with a better quality/capcity one eventually.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

what about an adrad vk heavy duty v8 one? They work really well and are not price wise near the custom stuff if it will suit the application.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

sands vs wrote:

what about an adrad vk heavy duty v8 one? They work really well and are not price wise near the custom stuff if it will suit the application.

Thats what I’m looking at. The place I spoke to said the cores on the 6 cylinder and the 8 cylinder are the same so cooling wise they’ll both be the same. The 6 has the inlet/outlet in the best spot for the motor.

Will probably get a quality one built down the track, but I’ll see how I go with the standard copper/brass one for the time being.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Picked up the driveshaft on Friday and installed it Saturday morning. Fits perfectly (I was a little worried cause I supplied the measurements), although I need to check if I used the right bolts. M10 bolts are too big, M8’s fit but there is a tiny bit of slack, it’s fine when they’re done up but I don’t know if they’ll slip a little once it’s on the road.

Even if I have to swap the bolts, I’m still stoked that the drive line is finally connected 

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Spoke to the guy at Gibson Driveshafts who built the driveshaft, he said to use M10 bolts with a fine thread, I guess I wasn’t trying hard enough to get one of my M10 bolts in. Another excuse to pop up to Supercheap on the weekend haha

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I reckon they will be the same pitch as the rear axle bolts.  Pity you arent in SA, I have some spare I would have donated.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Thanks for the offer Gary, appreciate the thought.

on a side note, I bought a second hand radiator for a hundred bucks. It’s in great condition, I’ll give it a clean out when I pick it up on the weekend.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Picked up the radiator yesterday. It’s in perfect condition. Came out of a VK with 76k kms, the fins on it are perfect, not one has been bent. Ran a hose through it and no hint of rust in the water at all. Going to put it in on the weekend and start mounting the thermo i have to see how it fits, plus start hunting for hoses. Still need to get an overflow for it, might get one of the metal cylinders that can be mounted next to the radiator to keep the bay clear.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

New radiator fits (so it fking should haha), but it wont fit with the thermo and shroud that came with the alloy radiator i originally bought. The shroud makes it sit back a bit too much and the bottom of the fan surround hits the radiator support. i was thinking of trimming the plastic a bit but the fan blades would sit too close to the support. It fits fine straight on the radiator without the shroud, but i’m not sure how well it will work like that. other option is to get a AU or BF etc. Ford thermo setup from the wreckers, that’s a fairly common conversion apparently.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Very controversial subject radiator shrouds.  The issue with them is they can do just that, shroud parts of the radiator and decrease the efficiency of the radiator if they sit too close.  Mine doesn’t have a shroud at all and works perfectly.  I do appreciate burnout cars doing little speed but lots of revs are maybe a different matter though.  Maybe just try it without one?

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Very controversial subject radiator shrouds. The issue with them is they can do just that, shroud parts of the radiator and decrease the efficiency of the radiator if they sit too close. Mine doesn’t have a shroud at all and works perfectly. I do appreciate burnout cars doing little speed but lots of revs are maybe a different matter though. Maybe just try it without one?

Yep I agree, there’s a lot of pro’s and con’s. I’ve seen high profile radiator specialists advertising pics of radiators they;ve sent to customers and some haven’t had shrouds. I’ll stick with what i have and whack the fan on to the radiator and see how it goes

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Got the radiator in and the thermo mounted. Went through the hose bins at Supercheap and found a VS V6 hose and an Astra hose with the right shape, cut them in half and they fit fine Top hose is spot on, the bottom may be a little narrow, it stretched over the lower outlets alright, i’ll see how it goes when its running. Also mounted the trans cooler. Put one fitting on the end of my braided line roll, prick to get on with the metal strands, sat a little crooked but its on there tight. I’ve seen some guys leave a small ring of tape around the tip to hold the strands in place while putting the ends on, might give that a crack next time.

[RennoParticipant Adelaide, SAVN SS | VX SS View build HERE Member since: March 11, 2016 Posts: 119]

If you are starting to play around with braided lines, I’d suggest getting your hands on one of these:

AN Hose Assembly Tool

I bought mine off of Summit Racing a few years back and I never assemble braided lines without it now.

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