HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVB – VC – VH – VK – VLHeron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

This topic contains 905 replies, has 31 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Heron SSV Heron SSV 2 years, 12 months ago.

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  • #25460
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    That should make pulling the new harness apart easier, my engine loom has all that in it.

    need some ideas on how to mount the rail and relays, thinking about in the glove box, maybe use a sheet of thickish plastic with some holes cut out to slot in the rail and relays and mount it under the dash so I open the glove box to access it

    #25468
    Profile photo of gtrboyy
    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    Most take fuse rail out of fusebox to mount them on L brackets so they poke through inner dash part that’s on left side of glove box when it’s opened…just remember never cut slot on right side or dash does 360 when opened lol

     

    Haven’t touched nor had access to ghetto vk in so long can barely remember how I hid it all.

    #25594
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Going to be ramping up work on the VK over the next month or two. A friend of a friend has built a few cars in the past and knows his way around wiring and will help me get it all wired up. Priced up the braided hose and fittings I need to run the fuel line from tank to rail and the trans cooler lines. Anyone have suggestions on where to run the trans lines, and also what clips to hold them in place?

    List of things to do:

    • Finish installing fuel pump
    • Buy tank straps as mine are too short
    • Fit tank
    • Run fuel line
    • Run trans cooler lines
    • Mount trans cooler and fan
    • Mount radiator and fan and figure out what hoses will fit
    • Remove old wiring harness
    • Lay out new harness and remove stuff I dont need
    • Install new harness
    • Start putting some of the dash in to make sure the wiring fits properly and figure out where to mount the fuse rail
    • Buy drop box and mount the shifter
    • Install trans dip stick
    • Install booster and master cylinder
    • Run brake lines
    • Stay positive after realising I have so much shit to do haha

    The Walbro fuel pump doesn’t sit in the holder at the end of the fuel pump bracket, the pump is way too big. can I cut the bracket off and use hose clamps to strap it to the pipe the holder is connected to?

    #25595
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Your last dot point has been haunting me for 3 years haha.

    You can always hose clamp the pump in place. Make sure it is at the correct height.

    Then u can weld the clamp to the existing hanger so u know it won’t move with vibration.

    #25596
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Your last dot point has been haunting me for 3 years haha. You can always hose clamp the pump in place. Make sure it is at the correct height. Then u can weld the clamp to the existing hanger so u know it won’t move with vibration.

    It’s the shadow that follows all car builders haha.

    Can I use normal metal hose clamps or do I need a certain type that wont be affected by fuel?

    #25597
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Looking at the wiring on the fuel pump, does the plug go inside the tank, and the exposed wires connect to the factory prongs on the top/end of the fuel sender unit?

     

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 11 months ago by Profile photo of Heron SSV Heron SSV.
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    #25600
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Standard clamps or stainless would work.

    Plug sits in the fuel and prongs to the existing ones.

    #25601
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Thanks Cav

    #25603
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    hey Heron I would check with engineer if you can run braided fuel line all the way under car

    #25604
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    hey Heron I would check with engineer if you can run braided fuel line all the way under car

    gonna run hardline for most of it. Braided from the filter/regulator over the diff then hardline up to the firewall then braid to the rail.

    #25611
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Posts: 775
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    Oh Ok just the way I read it you were going braided all the way :facepalm:

    on another note your last one on the list , I have to wait till I build my new house before I can start on the vh and that’s two year before I start the house  But at least I will have a 96sqm workshop to do it in :-( oh and a hoist

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 11 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #25862
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    So my plans to get stuck into the VK were sidelines by my wife who had the “wonderful” idea that I should build a deck at the side of my yard. Her statements of “shouldn’t be too hard” and “it wont cost that much” were blatant lies that made baby Jesus cry.

    So anyway, spent the weekend just gone tinkering some more. Stripped out the rest of the interior (seats, rest of the carpet, roof lining) and pulled the full wiring harness out to get ready for the new one. Had to remove the heater and AC box to get it out. Also installed the VS booster and VT master cylinder, need to get a bracket for the strut tower to master though. Anyone know if there are particular ones that fit, or can I just go to the wreckers and get a VT one?

    Failed in my efforts on the cowl, its lifted completely on one side, so might look for another bonnet for the time being, and may even get it done properly at a shop. Here’s some pics:

    #25906
    Profile photo of gtrboyy
    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    Most people end up bending their own m/cyl bracket or try modding stocker.

     

    Probably better off buying fibreglass bonnet with 4″ reverse cowl already done $700-$800 but can’t use bonnet struts or they bow…bonnets look better without scoop if car doesn’t need them.

    #25951
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Ordered some parts today. Got the fittings for the fuel system and the trans cooler, braided line, hardline, and brake line. Tips on mounting the hardline? Thinking I’ll run it down the passenger side and use P clamps screwed into the chassis rail

    #25955
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    This is how I ran mine.  I made up a small bulkhead plate, and so the last little bit is braided to the tank.  I did a similar little bulkhead alongside the trans, and have braided line up over the trans tunnel and comes out on the passenger side where there is more room.

    #27155
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Been a while chaps, not much done this year cause I bought three dirt bikes for me and the kids and have been busy riding and with the kids soccer. But I finally have some updates. I’ve booked the car in to get a full rewire from front to back. Been quoted around $4.5k all up. Also going to get a diff built. I’ve been leaning towards a Borg Warner, been quoted $3800 for one with a Harrop true tack, my choice of ratio, and 31 spline axles. Looked at going 9 inch but that’ll be around $5k. Open to some advice and recommendations from you blokes

    #27156
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    cava454
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    Just spool it. Save your self a bucket.

    Made paid $2200. Bw shortened. Full spool. Altra9 31spin axles. 1/2 wheel studs. Housing tubes welded.

    He supplied the gears.

    #27157
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Spool a BW instead of a true track?

    are there any decent diff shops in Vic I should try as well?

    #27158
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    cava454
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    IMO yes. For the amount of driving I did the additional $1500 for the true track I can’t personally justify.

    There is a guy near me that did my mates. JR modifications. Does very good work.

    #27162
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Spent the day calling a heap of shops. A few were either busy or havent called back yet. Best price so far was $2800 for a BW, 31 spline, true track, that was from Diff King but the dude was asian and i could hardly understand him. Next best was Geelong Diffs, Andrew quoted $3400 delivered for a BW, 31 spline, true track and brake lines. He’s leading so far, I could get something second hand but I have no idea what to look for and I’d rather spend a little more and get a new one.

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