Heron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Some good vids on YouTube on the right way to fit the box and converter, easy thing to stuff up if you aren’t careful.  When I did mine Grant from Norwood Autos came up yo my place and we did it together and he gave some tips on what to do and not to do. (was a 40+ degree day fun times!!)

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

So the last few weeks have been two steps closer and one step back. Need to remove the pilot bearing from the back of the motor so the converter will fit. A mate has a bearing puller so gonna borrow that and have another crack at getting the motor and box together and into the car this weekend.

Also have some parts off the motor I’m selling if anyone needs stuff, got the a/c condenser and lines, sump/pickup/dipstick, engine mounts, starter motor.

Tidied up the garage as well, was bugger all room with the engine crane and stuff in there.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yea something awesome about seeing an engine on the stand!  I am guessing this is sorted by now, but when I put my starter swap plate on it actually fouled the flex plate at the starter and stopped the crank turning, we had to grind some relief.  If you haven’t (you prob have) make sure its all spinning freely

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

Hey I know this works on the old brass spigot bearing get a grease gun  put in the bearing and fill with grease till it forces it out not sure if it works on the actual bearing ones

[daveParticipant daveVK, L98, tremec tko600 View build HERE Member since: March 6, 2015 Posts: 46]

Be careful using the grease pressing method on LS engines. The crank is hollow and has a core plug in the end behind the spigot bearing and it can apparently be pushed in by the grease and then you will have an engine oil leak when you put it back together

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

dave wrote:

Be careful using the grease pressing method on LS engines. The crank is hollow and has a core plug in the end behind the spigot bearing and it can apparently be pushed in by the grease and then you will have an engine oil leak when you put it back together

Yep heard about that issue using the grease method. Have to use a bearing puller

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

cool cheers never new that as have not worked on ls motors yet good to know though

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Managed to get a fair bit done over the last two weekends. Did a bit of Macgyver work to get the bearing out, grinded the sides off a nut and poked it through the hole, then used a bolt through the end of the trans cross member to thread the bot onto and pulled it out. Filled the converter with half a litre of fluid, installed it onto the gearbox shaft and bolted the box to the motor and the converter to the flex plate. Fits up nicely.

Spent Saturday and Sunday on the car, and can finally say the motor and box are in 

Got them in without too much drama, the engine leveller was getting too hard to turn all the way to tilt it down enough so it was a bit tight getting it in but get there in the end. The headers were a pain to fit. Have to raise the motor to get the passenger side in but one of the pipes just touched the gearbox bellhousing and another just touched the chassis rail. Ended up folding the lip of the rail over a little bit and massaged the pipes with a hammer. Drivers side are in two pieces, have to drop the steering rack to fit the rear two pipes, got them in and the steering shaft on and the shaft was hitting the pipe. Ended up putting them in and out about 5 times while doing a bit of hammer work to make enough clearance but got there in the end. I’m a pro at taking the rack in and out now lol. Anyway both sides are in, gaskets are in, bolts are in, trans cross member and mount are in and eveything is done up tight. Pic time:

[HDN05LParticipant Canberra ACTVS Olympic Edt 383 stroker Ute View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 289]

Bloody nice progress. I think all of us have some Macgyver in us lol.

Where did you get your gearbox from and what type of box are you running?

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Haha I had a love/hate relationship with it over the last couple of weeks.

Got the box from Paul Rogers Performance Transmissions in VIC. It’s a TH400, full manual and rated to 1000-1100 hp. Got the converter through  him as well, Dominator with 4k stall

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Just something that makes a car guy smile seeing an engine on a crane going into the bay Looking awesome, thanks for the update.

[sands vsParticipant vs commodore View build HERE Member since: March 1, 2015 Posts: 619]

Are they the crs headers?

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

No, they’re from CAE/Castle Headers. It’s hit and miss with headers on LS conversions in older Commodores. There’s people who have had them fit with no dramas, and others who need to do extensive modifications to get them to fit. Mine only needed a couple of taps with a hammer to give enough clearance.

I’m using 1 3/4 inch tri y’s and its pretty tight, no idea how some use 17/8 4-1’s.

Easier to just go single turbo setup haha

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

My experience was the pacemakers 1-3/4″ fitted the simplest, I have the CRE 1-7/8 4 into 1’s and yep they are bloody tight.  Splitting the drives side into 4 separate pipes helped.

[HDN05LParticipant Canberra ACTVS Olympic Edt 383 stroker Ute View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 289]

Heron SSV wrote:

Haha I had a love/hate relationship with it over the last couple of weeks. Got the box from Paul Rogers Performance Transmissions in VIC. It’s a TH400, full manual and rated to 1000-1100 hp. Got the converter through him as well, Dominator with 4k stall

Just spoke with Paul really nice guy and full of knowledge. Thanks for letting me know.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

I’ve been playing around with the wiring over the last couple of weeks. Got the new harness into position with most of the sensors connected. CAE have run the starter cabling down the drives side of the harness instead of the passenger side which i’m not impressed with, especially after i called them about it and they just said to pull the wiring out of the conduit and run it down the passenger side

The factory harness is all over the shop and I have no fking idea what’s needed and what isn’t. I’ve got a sparky coming round tonight to have a look and see what it’ll cost to have a pro fix it up. I love having a crack myself but have simply no idea when it comes to wiring, and all it takes is one dodgy connection or earth and the car will run like crap, if it runs at all, so I’d rather leave that part of the build to a professional.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Sparky came round, quoted 4.5k to rewire the whole car front to back using all new wiring, fuses, relays, connectors etc. as well as hiding most of the wiring. Said it’s about 1k in parts and the rest is labour, and takes around 40 hours to do.

anyone had any similar work done so i can compare the price?

stupid cars lol

[RennoParticipant Adelaide, SAVN SS | VX SS View build HERE Member since: March 11, 2016 Posts: 119]

Heron SSV wrote:

Sparky came round, quoted 4.5k to rewire the whole car front to back using all new wiring, fuses, relays, connectors etc. as well as hiding most of the wiring. Said it’s about 1k in parts and the rest is labour, and takes around 40 hours to do. anyone had any similar work done so i can compare the price? stupid cars lol

I know you said that you don’t know what you are doing when it comes to wiring, but since you have given everything else a crack, maybe its worthwhile giving it a try yourself. As long as you take your time and plan it out you shouldn’t have any issues.

[Heron SSVParticipant Central Coast NSW2009 Pajero Exceed 84 VK SL LS3 View build HERE Member since: May 5, 2015 Posts: 585]

Still weighing up my options. If the harness was complete and in good condition it wouldnt be a drama, but the fuse rail was cactus when i got it, and some parts of the harness look like it’s been modified and I can’t figure out why as all the mechanical stuff was stripped out before i got it

[LS3VKParticipant Perth View build HERE Member since: June 19, 2017 Posts: 8]

which harness do you have?

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