Help with 5L to LS Water Temp Sensor

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Yea agreed, whats the old saying, “an oil pressure gauge tells you when the engine is about to blow up, a temperature gauge tells you when it already has….” Actually I reckon that could be a really neat solution. I could then just extend and run the wire down in the original loom on the side of the bay and down the side of the radiator to it. Cheers for that, I reckon that’s a plan

 

I think that about covers it, I’ve just about dumped all the coolant in the Senator and the dash gauge didn’t move, fortunately I had stopped to check something completely different and noticed it was hot when I lifted the bonnet.  Engine did make a horrible ticking noise from around one of the rear cylinder for a bit but nothing blew up.

 

I think having the temp sender in the bottom hose is going to delay the noticeable change in coolant temperature even longer than the standard location.  Ideally it needs to be a close as possible to the thermostat where the highest temps are normally seen.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I think it will work opposite, if there’s a leak having a sender at the lowest point is going to show a spike in temp as the coolant drains, sender at the top as you found soon as it’s uncovered there’s little to no reading on the temp gauge..

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

When I had the sender in bottom hose if I was on fwy it would sit on 150/160F. Because the coolant in the radiator was so cool. Then out of no where the t/stat would open and the gauge would bounce straight to 210.

 

only way I believe the bottom hose would come close to being accurate would be if there was no t/stat.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

LOL never said it was going to be accurate…

Just in Gary’s case he doesn’t want to cut his top hose…

(I’d cut the hose) 

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

But as IJ has said its not about being accurate in reading an actual temperature, lets face it Holden gauges are woeful, no two read the same.  Its about watching for fluctuations/variations.  I have just gone out and bought an adapter for the hose, will fit it tomorrow and have a look.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

My theory is that as long as there is some coolant in the system and no airlock in the bottom hose it (the water pump) will continue to suck coolant from the radiator and force it into the engine so it (the engine) won’t show a major temperature fluctuation until all the coolant is lost in which case by the time you notice it will probably to late anyway.

In reality, how often do you notice a change in engine temperature?  How often do you check the gauge whilst you drive?  If you want a 100% fool proof method you really need to set up a bright warning light that illuminates at a set temp.

A much better option would be a low coolant sensor but Holden’s have never had such a thing unfortunately.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I have a scan gauge II in my daily and keep an eye on actual temps, the Holden gauge shows little to no movement across a 10c range around operating temp so Joe Average doesn’t freak out in traffic…

If the coolant is low everything at the top of the engine is steam which doesn’t register as a temp or the needle would be in the red, by this stage it’s usually already too late as it only takes 400c to anneal aluminium..

Agreed a low level sensor would be perfect.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Immortality wrote:

My theory is that as long as there is some coolant in the system and no airlock in the bottom hose it (the water pump) will continue to suck coolant from the radiator and force it into the engine so it (the engine) won’t show a major temperature fluctuation until all the coolant is lost in which case by the time you notice it will probably to late anyway. In reality, how often do you notice a change in engine temperature? How often do you check the gauge whilst you drive? If you want a 100% fool proof method you really need to set up a bright warning light that illuminates at a set temp. A much better option would be a low coolant sensor but Holden’s have never had such a thing unfortunately.

 

i notice the change all the time. Something I always checked up on.

 

I could actaully notice the difference between 160-190F on the factory gauge also.

 

It a personal thing on what u would like. TBH if you have an autometer gauge which is already giving you an ACCURATE reading, I wouldn’t bother with the factory dash.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I’m not at home so I cant take a pic right now, but you can see from this the #6 pipe curls back around behind #8 and pretty much means there’s no way to fit the sensor and/or adapter.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 11 months ago by  VRSenator065.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

OK million dollar question, if I simply disconnect and remove the LS sensor, will the ECU crack a sad, or will it work as normal?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

VRSenator065 wrote:

OK million dollar question, if I simply disconnect and remove the LS sensor, will the ECU crack a sad, or will it work as normal?

It will go into a safe/limp mode..

There are a bunch of tables that rely on the ECT sensor, if you’re talking about removing it for good NO bad idea..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

OK thanks, screw that idea then.  Nope I am going to try it in the bottom hose.  I have the ultra gauge that maybe I will plug into the OBD port for the first couple of days, that way I can keep an eye on both to make sure its all kosher.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I’d still put it in the top hose and be done with it….

That way it’ll read like stock and if you position it carefully won’t even know it’s there..

Grab a spare hose and precut it so if you’re ever out anywhere and blow a hose it’s a simple swap/refill to get it home.

Also be a good idea to measure whatever hose you decide on before buying the adaptor just to be 100% sure..

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

cava454 wrote:

Immortality wrote:

My theory is that as long as there is some coolant in the system and no airlock in the bottom hose it (the water pump) will continue to suck coolant from the radiator and force it into the engine so it (the engine) won’t show a major temperature fluctuation until all the coolant is lost in which case by the time you notice it will probably to late anyway. In reality, how often do you notice a change in engine temperature? How often do you check the gauge whilst you drive? If you want a 100% fool proof method you really need to set up a bright warning light that illuminates at a set temp. A much better option would be a low coolant sensor but Holden’s have never had such a thing unfortunately.

i notice the change all the time. Something I always checked up on. I could actaully notice the difference between 160-190F on the factory gauge also. It a personal thing on what u would like. TBH if you have an autometer gauge which is already giving you an ACCURATE reading, I wouldn’t bother with the factory dash.

 

VN-VS temp gauge I notice a difference in temps from thermostat open temp (82°C) and thermo fan on  temps (94°C, my settings) and see the gauge move as the thermo fan pulls the engine temps down.  However on the VX the gauge rarely moves once up to temp?

I do check the gauge at certain times and more so when I’m expecting to see temps rise but I doubt I would see it move if it happened between checking things.

I actually disagree with the modern driver training where you are taught to check the dash and mirrors every couple of seconds, to much time spent with you’re eyes off the road instead of watching what is ahead off you and oncoming traffic etc.  People are too distracted these days.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Well I do have the old two piece top hose that was on there until I found the current one piece, so i could use that.  I will give it some thought tomorrow and go one way or the other…

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Thinking is a good thing!

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Had a look when I got home, I think I have come up with a cunning plan m’lord.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Well done Balders…

[Red1m8Participant NZTurbo VX LSx Turbo VK in the build View build HERE Member since: April 10, 2015 Posts: 101]

What about tapping the flat spot on the water pump that some use as a steam pipe return for the factory sender .

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Red1m8 wrote:

What about tapping the flat spot on the water pump that some use as a steam pipe return for the factory sender .

That’s on the cold side of the radiator.

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