Help with 5L to LS Water Temp Sensor

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Hi all, so I have my water temp set up using the factory 5L sensor in the drivers side rear head using an adapter.

Now though with the CRE 4 into 1s headers they hit it so we had to remove it.

Anybody got any ideas on how to run it.  I was thinking I could maybe get a 90 degree angle fitting and screw it into the head then run it as before?  If i did that anyone know the thread for either the head or the 5L sensor?

The other way was maybe to tee off the LS sensor at the passenger bank up the front, but i kind of prefer to measure at the back.

Any thoughts or ideas?

• This topic was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

What are the characteristics of each sensor?

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

As I understand it, the 5L sensor talks directly (and so simply) to the instrument cluster giving me water temp.  The one at the front on the passenger bank I assume talks to the ECU for something within that and is different (how I don’t know).

I really don’t want to go down the path now of re configuring the cluster to talk to the ECU which would make having 2 sensors redundant.  So ideally if I could remount the 5L sensor in the same location it was but make it fit at this stage that’s the simplest solution.

But I just don’t know what the thread is in the head??

(if that makes sense)

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

OK so look like the hole in the head is tapped M12 x 1.5.  Pretty sure I have that tap & die.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I meant electrically, what ohms at what temp, should be able to find the specs online somewhere, might be able to use one for both..

Mechanically if you have room a T at the front of the left head will do it, M14x1.5 rings a bell on the LS heads.

<edit> measured one up M12x1.5 it is  :XD:

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

I meant electrically, what ohms at what temp, should be able to find the specs online somewhere, might be able to use one for both..

Sorry, I get it, I will see if I can find it but I sorta assumed that if people use the adapter like me you cant use both?

 

(edited because I swear this auto correct has a mind of its own!!)

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I think for simplicity I’d find an M12 male/female/female T and just run the 2 sensors on the left head.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yea just looked at it, no way i can make that side work.  I think a tee on the passenger side for now, maybe down the track getting the cluster temp guage to work wih the LS sensor.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

LS’s run it there stock, not really sure about the reasoning to run it on the drivers side rear..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

LS’s run it there stock, not really sure about the reasoning to run it on the drivers side rear..

I had been told that its best to measure it furthest from the pump to try and pick up a rise in temp early, but actually thinking about it that doesn’t really make sense.  Going to have to see if I can get a T off the shelf, or with the tapping size being 10.5 if there’s maybe a bsp fitting I can get and re tap it.  Got a feeling its not going to be overly pretty but at least it will get it working.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

I had the factory one in the front of passenger side and my autometer on the rear.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

How about something like this in the top hose?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-38mm-RADIATOR-HOSE-ADAPTER-WITH-1-8-NPT-TEMP-SENDER-PORT-AF64-2238-/131346678521?hash=item1e94df42f9:g:a6cAAOSw54xUYXKg

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

cava454 wrote:

I had the factory one in the front of passenger side and my autometer on the rear.

Your going to have to work out something like me though if you are going to run the same headers as mine on the new beast…

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

How about something like this in the top hose? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-38mm-RADIATOR-HOSE-ADAPTER-WITH-1-8-NPT-TEMP-SENDER-PORT-AF64-2238-/131346678521?hash=item1e94df42f9:g:a6cAAOSw54xUYXKg

Lol, if only you knew how much time and effort I put into sourcing a one piece top radiator hose to fit, it would break my heart to cut it

Is there any reason it wouldn’t also work in the bottom hose?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Would work but it’s going to read a bit cooler, if it’s just the gauge in the dash it won’t make any difference as you’ll be scanning for any changes in needle position and not actual temps.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yea agreed, whats the old saying, “an oil pressure gauge tells you when the engine is about to blow up, a temperature gauge tells you when it already has….”  Actually I reckon that could be a really neat solution.  I could then just extend and run the wire down in the original loom on the side of the bay and down the side of the radiator to it.  Cheers for that, I reckon that’s a plan

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Saves faffing around with a fugly T piece  :XD:

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yep exactly, it certainly would be pretty bloody bulky and ugly, and maybe a little fragile too.  Last thing i want is some fitting breaking and it pumping the water out half way from nowhere.  Nope that a nice way to do it.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

You’ll just have to drill and tap it to match the 5.0L sender and maybe run a ground wire if it’s a single wire sender..

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Send a photo of what the problem is.

 

The sensor in the head reads a lot more accurate. I used to have mine in the bottom gauge and IMO is wasn’t as accurate as I would like it too be.

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