HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVB – VC – VH – VK – VLGMVL86 | 10.50 @ 129mph, Ls2, Vic Jr, Th350, 58oo Stall, Willwoods

This topic contains 357 replies, has 25 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Bdj_007 Bdj_007 5 years, 9 months ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 141 through 160 (of 359 total)
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  • #19427
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
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    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Got the diff back from Recce at diffco. He did an absolutely outstanding job!

    Only thing i need to do is move the shocker bracket in either side.

    [p.s. yes, i know the m/ts are on the wrong way]

    #19428
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Everything is pretty much buttoned up and ready for braid and wiring!

    #19429
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Nice mate. So wheels fit good. You going to move shocker mount on diff or in tub? Remember tech soon as you move mount it can’t be engineered. So do it stealthy

    what headers they?

    #19434
    Profile photo of jlss
    jlss
    Participant
    Member since: May 7, 2015
    Posts: 155

    Nice work. This has came a long way the last few days getting all the big bits. Ha ha.  :good:

    #19458
    Profile photo of Michael
    Michael
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 208
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    Wilwoods are on. I’m upset i had to run an 8mm spacer to move the caliper in more.

    Same problem I had mate. I’m hoping to get away with grinding a bit off the caliper though. I think my v-series are 2.25″ bs.

    Otherwise I have a 8mm spacers laying around also. Maybe 4mm somewhere.

     

    Also so you should run longer studs. That looks like Andra would not approve.

    #19578
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
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    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Wilwoods are on. I’m upset i had to run an 8mm spacer to move the caliper in more.

    Same problem I had mate. I’m hoping to get away with grinding a bit off the caliper though. I think my v-series are 2.25″ bs. Otherwise I have a 8mm spacers laying around also. Maybe 4mm somewhere. Also so you should run longer studs. That looks like Andra would not approve.

    It wouldn’t have worked doing it that way on this. The caliper needs to be central with the rotor. if i did what you suggested it be more in favour of the outside pistons if you get what i mean.

    Supposedly all these willwood kits are like that. They are just 1 universal fit. and you have to mod it to suit.

    The threads are about 3mm from the end of the nut. Definitely better than factory

     

    Nice mate. So wheels fit good. You going to move shocker mount on diff or in tub? Remember tech soon as you move mount it can’t be engineered. So do it stealthy what headers they?

    Moved it on the diff man. pulled it over around 10mm and scraped some of the factory stoneguard & sealer off the inner of the tub and it fits like a charm

    I believe they are pacemaker tri-y’s

     

    Nice work. This has came a long way the last few days getting all the big bits. Ha ha.

    Getting there man haha, hoping to start it up Grand final weekend.

    #19579
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Ran into our first problem. Supposedly happens to all early girls with this conversion. The nut and shaft hit on the header.

    It was fixed up pulling the motor up on the tuff mounts. shaving the bolt to the nut and hitting the header in to make it fit my millimeters.

    apparently its just what you have to

    #19580
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    forgot to put another pic up.

    the internals of the diff

    #19581
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Looks phat back on the ground again   B-)

    #19583
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Looking smick.

     

    What lower trailing arms you use

    #19584
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Looking smick. What lower trailing arms you use

    Pro 9 Adjustable

    http://www.pro9.com.au/?PCID=23503&PSO=259&PSID=Pro9-Com6000A&PSV=Primary&CDO=

    #19585
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Nice. Do they sit lower then standard

    #19587
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Looks great.  Exhaust clearance around the steering knuckle is tight no matter what.  Looks like you got it nicely sorted though.  What headers are they?

    #19590
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Nice. Do they sit lower then standard

    Nah. Because of where the spring hanger is located, the springs need to be 2.5inch lower. So expect to get out the grinder haha.

    They are great, because the give you full adjustment on where you want the diff to sit and helps with the pinion angle.

    Adjustable pan hard rod does wonders as well.

     

    Looks great. Exhaust clearance around the steering knuckle is tight no matter what. Looks like you got it nicely sorted though. What headers are they?

    Pacemaker tri-y’s i believe

    #19591
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    So you actually gain clearance? From the ground?

    #19593
    Profile photo of Hoopstar
    Hoopstar
    Participant
    Member since: June 10, 2016
    Posts: 48

    You’ll fret a little less about denting the extractors after watching this…  :yahoo:

     

    #19595
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    You’ll fret a little less about denting the extractors after watching this…

    <iframe src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/azPKIjxmmdU?feature=oembed” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe>

    Haha my mate Cam showed me that. Couldn’t believe after what they did to those pipes it was only like 1hp difference

     

    So you actually gain clearance? From the ground?

    Same as standard. They really help when trying to fit a big tyre.

    With standard control arms i wouldnt have had a hope getting those 255’s under.

    #19596
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Wickid. Good to know. I’ve got boxed arms which have been shaved. But always liked the look of these, plus the option to adjust it.

    #19599
    Profile photo of Bdj_007
    Bdj_007
    Participant
    Member since: March 17, 2015
    Posts: 206

    Wickid. Good to know. I’ve got boxed arms which have been shaved. But always liked the look of these, plus the option to adjust it.

    Ahh wicked. Should still work a treat man.

    #19601
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Don’t reckon they are paccies, they are flattened there to give more clearance. Look a bit like CRE?

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