HomeForumsTechnical – GeneralTech Articles, Links & CalculatorsCar care products for rubbing buffing paint

This topic contains 11 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Slow355 Slow355 7 years, 11 months ago.

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #20457
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
    Supporter

    so as most know I’m not one to pay someone to do something for me and having just painted my Monaro earlier this year i got a bit of time to start rubbing and buffing it last week and today

     

    Iv done this before to 2 PAC kitchens Iv built and painted, my manta, even done it to polished timber bench tops before and Iv tryed a few different products

     

    Some brand I can not remember but was U2B

    meguires mirror glaze diamond cut 2.0

    meguires fine cut cleaner

    formlar 1

    and a few others over the years back when I was doin lots of 2 PAC kitchens years ago

     

    there all crap and the u2b was by far the best and was what I used on the manta but can not find it anymore

     

    Some are so crap I have just mutilated my bonnet and I have to repaint it now using the mcguires diamond cut 2.0 last week

     

    So I asked some painters what they thought was best and a lot said juice cutting compound then 3D finishing polish

     

    then one guy said he has been using juice cutting compound for long time and a rep just brought in 3D aat rubbing compound and sanded a gaurd with 800 then buffed it and wiped it with prepsol and bam scratches where gone and very very quickly, noticble quicker then juice product and he was astounded at how fast and good it worked

     

    so I got online and ordered a 1L (well 940mm or what ever it is) of 3D aat rubbing compound and 3D aat finishing polish coming in at $80 each there not cheap stuff

     

    rubbed 2/3 of the car with 2000 and thought well this is goin to take days now and got the 7inch viable speed grinder out and put the wool pad on and started with the roof

     

    that 3D rubbing compound is off the charts fucking unreal 4 or 5 dam minutes the roof was 95% done so got the rest of car done like this

     

    then fitted a orange foam pad and went over it then washed car and using my orbital polishing machine I went over it half assed with the finishing polish as I lost light

     

    obviously tomorrow in good light I will have some touch ups to do with cutting compound

     

    I have never ever used a product that fixes paint so fast and easily I spent 3-4 hours and 2 hours of that was sanding and got 70% of car done

     

    I spent double this time on just the bonnet using that crap meguires mirror glaze 2.0 only for it to end up burning through clear before it removed scratches

     

    anyway 3D aat rubbing compound and finishing polish are off the charts good for paint and I doubt anything that I will get my hands onto will beat it for a while  :yes:

    #20462
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Any links?

    There is a fine art to polishing I’ve learn. Something I don’t pocess.

    #20463
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
    Supporter

    The top 2 in green bottles

     

    just slow and steady really and have to use wool pad first then orange  foam pad and this buffing thing is a new paint job thing, don’t do it to a old factory paint job, it’s purely to remove any orange peel and dust

     

    most other cutting compounds have what they call fillers in them and after buffing if you wipe with prepsol it will remove these fillers and the scratches will show up again, washing the car 3 times will also remove the fillers and your stuck in a loop and buffing and washing

     

    pretty much any rubbing compounds  and polish  you can get from a shop are crap, they are designed so polishes are easily washed off by the crap wash stuff then you need more polish so your back at the shop buying polish again and buying that same wash and again in a loop of cleaning

     

    use the good stuff and can polish and wash and have that bead off water effect for months on end and wash after wash instead of using the crap and washing it twice and then water sites on it and the schamy just smears the water on it

     

    fuck cleaning cars, I’m using the good shit and it makes life so much easier, the blue car is lucky to get cleaned 5 times a year and yet always looks clean and the Monaro gets cleaned weekly and is always filthy

     

     

    http://detailcentral.com.au/compounds-and-polishes/

    #20466
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    Cheers. Mine still hasn’t been buffed. It’s still fresh off the gun. 6 years old lol

    The guy doing my bay will give it a good polish so she’s A1 again.

    #20468
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
    Supporter

    Painted by someone who hasn’t worked in the industry for over 10 years in a shed and home made booth and rubbed and buffed by a ape that has only half a idea what he is doin

     

    this stuff really is that good, it takes a lot for me to rave on about something that is good

     

    this morning I wash it after I hit a few spots that needed fine touch ups and I wiped water off it in about 2 minutes flat, I have never wiped water off a car that quick in my entire life

     

     

    #20503
    Profile photo of VS 5.0
    VS 5.0
    Participant
    Member since: March 31, 2015
    Posts: 118

    After going to all that effort, don’t use a shamy. to dry the car.

    Far better off with a microfibre drying cloth to avoid any marring of the paint.

    #20527
    Profile photo of Dan811
    Dan811
    Participant
    Member since: March 4, 2015
    Posts: 124
    Supporter

    After going to all that effort, don’t use a shamy. to dry the car. Far better off with a microfibre drying cloth to avoid any marring of the paint.

    ^^^ THIS!

    have a look at AMMO NYC and Larry Kosilla’s videos on youtube, he’s one of the top car detailers full stop. I’ve got terribly soft red paint on the monaro and couldn’t work out why there were always tiny hairline scratches on it all the time. I only realised after watching a couple of his videos that I was actually causing them because of the way I washed and dried my car.

    Also definitely going to try the 3D products, i’m not entirely happy with the meguiars stuff at the moment. It’s not bad, just not great for my application.

    #20529
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
    Moderator
    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
    Supporter

    So you guys actaully wash your cars?  :what:

    #20532
    Profile photo of Slow355
    Slow355
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 322

    Yea dont use a shamy, always use a cloth or be like me and befriend a panel beater and never worry about how to buff a car etc. Its a fine art not something to practise on your 15k paint job lads

    All i do is wash with soapy water and maybe a mothers wax sometimes

     

    munch munch ls1s for lunch
    Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8sec

    #20533
    Profile photo of vs manta 218
    vs manta 218
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 796
    Supporter

    Ok looks like I’m throwing my shammy away then and drying with a cloth, shammys suck ass anyway

     

    your  paint on ute come up mint man

     

    yeah dan throw your mcguires in the bin and get some 3D for sure

     

    also slow 355 I have 2 mates one a painter and one a panel beater and both are willing to show me how to buff but when I ask if they will do it they just laugh and say yeah right and walk away

     

    assholes lol

     

     

    #20538
    Profile photo of Dan811
    Dan811
    Participant
    Member since: March 4, 2015
    Posts: 124
    Supporter

    Its a fine art for sure, but if you’re willing to put the time in and find the right combo for your paint, it’s worth it (depending on how anal you are)

    it’s also not cheap, finding the right tools and buffing/cutting pads takes time, learning how to wash the pads properly takes time, learning how to constantly flush residue off the pads as you’re using them takes time.

    I really recommend watching the ammo nyc videos, they helped me understand what the pads/products are actually doing and why they all produce slightly different results.

    Now, I only polish once/twice a year, and apply wax every 3-4 washes. And after having done it a few times, you learn how to do it quickly and safely too. Washing is also heaps quicker because having a layer of wax on means the dirt/water doesn’t stick to your paint, it comes off nice and easy.

    #20541
    Profile photo of Slow355
    Slow355
    Participant
    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 322

    Ok looks like I’m throwing my shammy away then and drying with a cloth, shammys suck ass anyway your paint on ute come up mint man yeah dan throw your mcguires in the bin and get some 3D for sure also slow 355 I have 2 mates one a painter and one a panel beater and both are willing to show me how to buff but when I ask if they will do it they just laugh and say yeah right and walk away assholes lol

     

    Hahah my guy is the same but when i threaten to let someone else touch it he does it haha. Its an all day job when done right, when i clay bared my car that took ages in itself. Each to their own, ill wash and wax but not cut.

    munch munch ls1s for lunch
    Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8sec

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.