AWD E36 BMW

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

6 point..

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Mounted the aux extinguisher then painted up some more bits, measured up for the fuel lines, have to shoot down to Sunbury to get more paint, forgot about the roll cage.. DOH

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

cava454 wrote:

lol. 4 point harness. SEAT BELT. Not wiring.

Dohh!

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

VRSenator065 wrote:

cava454 wrote:

lol. 4 point harness. SEAT BELT. Not wiring.

Dohh!

funny I thought you were all talking about wiring aswell

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

LoL, now it makes sense, I’ll leave the wiring till last, it all works but it’ll need a LOT if relocation done so may not work afterwards…

Yeah I usually cable tie it to anything near by but might use anchors and nutserts this time to make it a bit more user friendly..

Would be nice to be able to unclip it all so I can pressure wash the interior now and again..

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

And for something completely different, time to fit my new Billet aluminium Barbell, seemingly the LS series of engines have a problem with the stock plastic one cross feeding.

The aluminium one is much tighter tolerance so I figured I may as well do it while the engine is out.. just have to nip into town to get a couple of tools I need.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Well that was a bit of an unproductive day…

Back when I bought the Shallow Fabricated rear Sump all I could get was one set up for Drag racing, this meant it has wings for capacity but only a Front/Rear trap door baffle..

I knew I had to drop it again to do the Barbell so had bought some hinges to make some bolt in Side Baffles and Doors, an hour of searching for the “Safe” place I’d put them and bzzz 404 hinges NOT found, trip back into town to find the Hardware store is no longer there and hasn’t been for over a year..

Hit the big chain store and found some that’ll work, too late to do anymore today so back into it in the morning, damn happy I don’t pay me by the hour…

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

What’s the idea behind the barbell?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

The stock one leaks so affects pressure and let’s unfiltered oil through… The aluminium one is much tighter in its bore..

It seperates the in and out passages for the filter, it also has a taper cut on one end to increase flow.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Early start to try and beat the heat.. sort of successful, it’s a good thing sometimes having thinking time, I didn’t want to weld the baffles in as the sump is anodised and would look like shit..

Figured out a way to have them bolt in, also mounted them on a slight off vertical angle so they’re only fully closed under G loads, pretty happy it’s buttoned back up, I have a few other jobs to do so got the 36 off the hoist in preparation..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Very nice work with the sump.  Juries out for me on the barbell, cant really see how it can leak when its got an O ring provided its fitted properly, and damage to an O ring can occur no matter if the barbell is plastic or ally.  And it only even sees oil pressure which to an O ring is peanuts.  But it is piece of mind, and can’t hurt.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

It’s a crossleak Gary, the o-ring seals the horizontal gallery from the crankcase, there are 2 vertical galleries that go to the in/out of the filter, the plain machined end of the barbell seals the in/out.

I’m assuming when the plastic one is brand new it’s an adequate seal but as it wears you start sending unfiltered oil to the bearings..

My thought is they use it as a thermal plug as the barbell will be hotter than the block so it expands more to seal, still not sure why it doesn’t just have another o-ring though..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Fair enough.  As I say I am not convinced, but it can’t hurt. I guess the reason for no second O ring is when you were fitting it, it would have to go down past the cross drilling and would have got cut up on the sharp edge?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I figure for $6 if there’s even a slight chance of it bypassing the filter it’s well worth the effort to upgrade..

The factory part was a bit “dick in a gum boot” when I pulled it out, new one is a nice snug slip fit.

Locally they’re about $60…. Because Performance Part..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

The factory part was a bit “dick in a gum boot” when I pulled it out

Lol, love it .

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Short day as it’s stupid hot already, brain teaser, my old setup was front sump in the Lexcen so I just used a factory dipstick, new rear mounted sump is another matter, that and the back half of the engine is under the firewall with 0 access..

There is provision on the block for a rear mount stick but I drilled and tapped that hole as the return from the Engine catch can,

Solution, using some an fittings I added a T near the bottom for the catch can, drilled a bulkhead fitting to accept the factory stick and made a bracket to bolt it to the rocker cover, slipped some firesleeve over the hose and am pretty happy with it.

My Aeroflow order arrived, just over $1K in fittings and hose, let the plumbing begin!

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Thought I better do a stock take a d make sure I ordered the right bits, all good except for the 10mm id crush washers, DOH somehow ordered -10, luckily I have enough here to cover the mistake..

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

That’s a nice simple, elegant solution for the dipstick, good work.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Thanks Gary, had me scratching my head for a bit there, could make it “pretty” if I’d used braided Teflon but it’d be a Damn expensive Dipstick Tube!…

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That’s enough plumbing for one day, due to how I mounted the master cylinders going hardline would have been a total pita, half is imperial and half metric so took a bit of shuffling to sort it.

Ended up with -4 braided Teflon to the ABS pump, the rest will be -3 stainless hardline, also plumbed the onboard fire suppression system with new -4 hardline and cut down my windshield wiper as some numptie has put a big ass Supercharger in the way…

[Judge1 FrazerParticipant new zealand1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed View build HERE Member since: February 5, 2016 Posts: 775]

what is the fire suppression system worth and what do the nozzles look like and how do activate it

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Currently the system I have is around $770, I chose it because it’s really cheap to recharge, many aren’t.

You can see the nozzles in a few of the pics, they’re a Fan spray pattern.

it comes with a T handle, you pull it and it pierces the CO2 cannister on the tank, I have 2 nozzles in the engine bay, 1 aimed at my legs and another towards the rear floor over the fuel tank.

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