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  • #28647
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
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    Hey Ian that a few bits is it stain less or mild steel , what is your cutting method/ tools

    #28649
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    409 Stainless Frazer, I use a few methods, chain pipe cutter, 4″ Death wheel and a band saw, just depends on where the cut is, 409 is soft enough it cleans up fine inside with a deburring tool and welds with the Mig and mild steel so you don’t need to back gas, it save s a heap in gas.

    #28659
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    You mig headers IJ?  I thought you would tig?

    #28662
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    You mig headers IJ? I thought you would tig?

    Nah takes too long and you pretty much have to back purge them with Tig..

    If it was something pretty I would but “because RaceCar” covers using the Mig, most production headers are Migged..

    ——————————

    Just been into town to collect a couple of parcels, one is an electric drill sharpener, doing them by hand these days has been very hit or miss with them often cutting oversize… (old age and I don’t have a good wheel on the bench grinder)

    Sharpened up a few fully Munted Bits and they’re all cutting within .01mm so I’m happy with that, also got some Hammer bits for the new Air chisel I bought the other week, often there just isn’t room to swing a real hammer so they will come in handy!

    Had my Cleco pins and tool along with a set of pipe expanders turn up yesterday so I can do the sheet metal work and the slip fits collectors.

    Still have a few parcels outstanding, looking like next week now though..

    Weekend off to play race drivers in the 206!..

    #28664
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    I didn’t back purge mine system, tbh I think its a little over rated unless you are trying to squeeze out the last tenth of a killerwasp :)

    #28666
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Nah actually it’s a MUCH strong weld if you do, just don’t think it’s at all necessary for the race car build, chances of the pipes getting trashed in time are fairly high so hard to justify the time and cost..

    #28672
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Didn’t know that, I thought it was really about the finish on the inside, mines not showing any signs of cracks or breaks, yet…

    #28674
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    It’s a crystalline structure on the last 1/3rd of the weld so is inherently weak, NOT saying it’ll fail just that there’s a reason other than surface finish to back purge..

    ———————————

    And that’s me done for the day, only so much header building I can take in one hit..

    Got both slip fit collectors finished and still slipping without having to use the pipe expanders, also sliced up the flanges after stamping the cylinder number into each.

    What a difference the new welding hood makes, was almost enjoyable… almost.

    #28675
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Posts: 5 777
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    Nice work mate, gotta get myself that new helmet & hood…

    #28676
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Just makes it all go so much quicker if you don’t spend hours grinding and sanding the uglies..  ;-)

    #28678
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    No time for wasting , have you split your flanges (reasons)

    #28681
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    I have to snake the pipes around the front driveshaft, doing them as individual pipes make it a lot easier and if I need to pull them out for any reason it’s doable without dropping the entire drivetrain..  :yes:

    #28682
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    I have to snake the pipes around the front driveshaft, doing them as individual pipes make it a lot easier and if I need to pull them out for any reason it’s doable without dropping the entire drivetrain..

      Yep, yep, and triple yep.  Mines the same.  Soooo much easier, and I dont have a front diff!!

    #28684
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
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    I’ve split mine into 4 also. I’d have no chance of fitting them otherwise.

    #28685
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    All the cool guys are doing it  B-)

    #28686
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Lol.

    #28687
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    All the cool guys are doing it

    Whilst I ooze cool. Mine was only done cause the headers are a POS.

    #28688
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    You might want to see a Doctor if you’re oozing  ;-)

    I could make mine one piece but they’d have to be shorties and I don’t want to lose anything down low power wise, all in all just easier making them slip fits, I’ll be using motorcross exhaust springs on each primary pipe so they’re preloaded and tight all the time.

    #28689
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
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    I needs to get me some of those springs. Got a link for some?

    #28690
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    I just searched eBay for exhaust springs, the ones I got are 80mm long and we’re $7 a pair, sorry can’t link from the phone…

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