Home›Forums›Members’ Builds and Rides›VQ – WN Statesman›Atlas Grey VQ Statesman 304
This topic contains 133 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by McDriveit 6 years, 11 months ago.
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March 27, 2015 at 10:41 am #3428
Model: 1991 VQ Statesman Series 1
Colour: Atlas Grey
Bodykit: Caprice side and rear skirts. Blackout grille.
Engine: Stock 304 Bottom end (rings and bearings replaced, stock 8.4:1 comp), Mild hand-port heads, 2.02″ inlet valves, standard exhaust valves (both Stainless), Crane 218@.050, 110LSA cam, speed pro lifters, speed pro chrome moly pushrods, YT 1.65:1 Roller Rockers, LT1 Valvesprings, Rollmaster double row chain, Deburred block and smoothed valley, Powerbond Street Balancer, High Energy Super Pan sump.
172rwkw, 12.6@108mph, 1.80 60ft.
Fuel System: Group A 24lb Injectors, standard rail, Turbosmart fuel reg, Bosch 044 pump from 1.5L surge tank, standard in-tank pump.
Exhaust: 1 5/8″ Tri-Y Extractors, twin 2.5″ into twin 3″ metal cats, twin 2.25″ mufflers into single 3″.
Transmission: Pro Convertors 9″ 4000rpm stall, Fully rebuilt TH700 auto with: wider Hi-energy Kevlar 204 band, Hi-energy 3/4 frictions, Hi-energy forward frictions, ‘The Beast’ reaction shell, Steel thrust below shell, Sonnax bush kit, Transgo Stage 2 Shift Kit, Billet 2nd and 4th gear servos, 0.500″ Bosst valve, larger 1-2 accumulator, B&M Pro Ratchet, B&M Monster Trans cooler with Thermostat controlled SPAL fan and -6 braided feed lines, TCI Super Pan.
Differential: BW78 IRS, 3.89 gears, mini spool.
Brakes: VS Booster, VT Master Cylinder with RBS Adaptor plate, PBR Performance front calipers, slotted rotors, billet adaptor hubs, braided lines. Slotted rear rotors, bendix advance pads and B&M line lock.
Suspension: Kings VS V6 Ultralows front, SSSL springs rear, Monroe GT shortened shocks front and rear, Nolathane adjustable strut tops, Noltec 2 point inner camber kit, Nolathane non-adjustable outer bushes, Noltec rear k-frame bushes, VS trailing arms, strengthened VP K-frame, Nolathane radius rod bushes (k-frame and control arm), Nolathane control arm bushes, Nolathane sway bar mounting bushes and heavy duty link pins.
Wheels: 19×8″ VY GTS in Shadow Chrome
Interior: Standard with Autometer transmission temperature, voltmeter, mechanical oil pressure and mechanical water temperature guages, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Integrated shift light and autometer oil pressure warning lights.
Other: Crane Hi-6 Ignition system, smoothed engine bay, VQ Caprice fog lights.
March 27, 2015 at 11:17 am #3431Good to see u on board Dale. Tuff rig this fellas
How’s the other project going?
March 27, 2015 at 11:25 am #3432
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777^ roger that, great to have you over, very tuff. Always actually wondered about your intake, any more info on it?
March 27, 2015 at 1:46 pm #3448Thanks fellas.
What would you like to know? It has a 10″ runner from trumpet to the back of the valve (vs 8″ for VN Group A), 44mm internal diameter. Plenum dimensions are identical to the VN Group A setup. It runs twin 60mm throttles (VN V6), which i’m told is somewhere in the vicinity of 1000cfm. Plenty for this motor. The target 2nd order harmonic for this was somewhere around 5000rpm, and seems to work well.
The attached dyno graph tells an interesting tale. This was with the old 3000rpm dominator stall and an earlier tune. Peak number is also nothing to brag about, I was only chasing what the curve looked like. You can see it falls over about 5700-5800rpm, which means that it’s the cam, not the intake, that’s limiting it. So I was happy with that. The cam is tiny.
For the past 4 years, I’ve done very little to the car, bar little tidy ups here and there; we built our first house and I’ve spent the last 2 years since moving in spending any spare cash on landscaping and interior stuff, which I actually quite enjoy. Instead, I’ve spent time driving it when I can. It’s extremely streetable, even with the ‘ghetto’ nature of it all. My other half drives it regularly, but I have to keep her in check as she lights them up more than I do.
However, the landscaping will hopefully be coming to an end toward the end of the year and I finally might be able to move on to the next stage of things. In saying this, travel is high on the priority list among other things so I make no promises of timelines.
First up:
– Haltech Platinum Sport GM
– New cam and lifters (probably Crane 284)
– Replace rear main seal
– New valve springs and teflon seals
– Head studs
– Replace main studs (have been tensioned a few times)
– New full twin 2.5″ exhaustThen.
– New intake manifold
– TH400
– M80 3.08 trutrac
– Garrett GT4088 ‘air assist’
March 27, 2015 at 1:57 pm #3458Cav – I missed your question on the VR. That thing’s going to the scrappies. I’ve had the shell coming up 2 years in June, I’ve gotten nowhere with it and if i’m spending cash on anything, I’d rather it go to the VQ.
It’ll be free to good home if anyone wants to come pick it up, hopefully I’ll have all the stuff cleared out from inside it on easter weekend.
March 27, 2015 at 2:20 pm #3473Good work mate. Sounds like a good plan.
So no pcm this year? I need my fix. I’m like a meth addict atm hahah
March 27, 2015 at 3:01 pm #3497I’ll be in south east asia diving for two weeks.
Tough gig ;)
March 27, 2015 at 3:05 pm #3498
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Mate I tip my hat to someone with the skill and knowledge to make their own intake like that, especially one that works, very very cool.
March 27, 2015 at 3:42 pm #3501I’ll be in south east asia diving for two weeks. Tough gig ;)
Son of a Bitch.
December 19, 2015 at 1:18 pm #12271So nothing has really happened with this. I have still been sinking spare money into the house and also just bought the missus a new car – Ford Fiesta ST (Insert Ford jokes). It’s a killer little car.
Anyway I only have a week off over Christmas, so figured I should do at least something with the car as it has had next to no love over the past few years.
Plans aren’t big, I just intend on pulling the rear end out for some minor changes. I’ll make the trailing arm mounting mods to decrease camber, I’ve ordered a Torque Lock LSD centre for the M78 (to replace the mini spool which I’ve had for nearly 7 years, no complaints or breakages) that should arrive Monday. For $650 delivered it’s worth a shot (apparently Australian made, but I doubt it).
I’ll replace the camber adjustable bushes as well as they’re probably worn now after a few years and likely replace the rear shocks, hopefully something that can help reduce axle tramp. Suggestions?
Will probably also slot in a nolathane insert into the diff mount. I might also replace the braided lines in the boot for the surge tank and 044 with hard line to reduce fuel vapour permeation.
Next lot of work is to re-do some wiring then eventually pull the engine. The rear main leak is now quite impressive, and if I drive much more than 10-15km it gets pretty bad.
Not sure what to do engine wise though…
http://www.tuffcarparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1580
December 19, 2015 at 1:21 pm #12272Oh and before Cav points out “what about the CV you smashed at Calder?”, that was axle tramp as I was a tight arse on tyres and tried using 4 year old Adrenalines on the right-hand lane. Fail sauce. Would’ve happened with an LSD as well, but at least with the spool I could drive it still :P
December 19, 2015 at 1:56 pm #12273
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Lots of theories on curing axle tramp, one that does seem to work is more horsepower
December 19, 2015 at 2:28 pm #12275Lots of theories on curing axle tramp, one that does seem to work is more horsepower
Tramp in swing axle cars is usually down to camber change, squat it rides up on the edge of the tyre spins car settles and you get full contact patch rises up again rinse repeat, LOTS of power bypasses this effect and just blazes the tyres :XD:
December 19, 2015 at 2:34 pm #12276
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Well this is one of those ones that everyone has an opinion. The guys that make my drive shafts, G Force in the states, purposely make their drive shafts two slightly different diameters left/right. Their theory (seems to work) is that this breaks up the resonance occurring between them and stops the tramp. My opinion is its a bit of a lottery how the whole combination of a car combines, which is why some do it some don’t, some run a loose rear cures it, some run a tight cures it, some run a harder diff mounts etc. But def lots of HP seems to get rid of it.
December 19, 2015 at 2:42 pm #12277I think the different diameter axles work by varying the twist side to side during the load unload phase and this cancels out the tramp by putting the rear wheels out of phase with each other, the camber change/tramp issue was the prime mover when I built the rear end in the Lexcen so far so good..
December 20, 2015 at 9:05 pm #12315I’ve only had one decent tramp instance at the strip but that caused a breakage.
Have had some minor ones at high speed when on a slippery surface. But let’s see how it goes.
December 20, 2015 at 9:28 pm #12317still good hearing this is getting some love, nice work
December 21, 2015 at 10:43 am #12589Cheers.
Just emptied my wallet on some speedflow to tidy up the fuel system. Picked up some adaptors for the power steering too as I will eventually put an Astra electric pump on it.
December 21, 2015 at 12:39 pm #12590
VRSenator065Participant- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777Interested to see how the Astra ps unit turns out.
December 21, 2015 at 4:53 pm #12596Interested to see how the Astra ps unit turns out.
DItto, gonna use one on the LE..
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